Today is the last day of 2008. The United Nations resolution that allows the U.S. to be here expires at midnight tonight. Beginning tomorrow, we are here as “guests” of the people of Iraq.
Today, the American flag was lowered at the Presidential Palace which has served as the seat of the U.S. presence in Iraq. Just yesterday, Savannah and I were walking the grounds of the palace; today they are gated and walled by 14 foot barriers to keep the Americans out for the first time since the occupation.
Tonight was a beautiful very Arabic looking night. As I looked to the sky there was the crescent moon flanked by a shimmering planet, both just above the horizon, nicely framed by palm trees on one side and the palace on the other.
Tonight the entire city of Baghdad sounded like major combat was happening. The sound of AKs filled the night. There were thousands of shots every minute. I was surrounded by gunfire. The Iraqis were celebrating both the New Year and their sovereignty. I can appreciate that. Meanwhile, we were in body armor and combat helmets to protect us from the hail of bullets that was raining down all over Iraq tonight.
In a strange way, this was a good thing. In a strange way, this hail of fire was a sign of our success. We should have felt out of place on this night.
Tonight a couple of my buddies and I went to the palace dining facility for our ‘last supper.’ After dinner, we took a walk around the pool and stood around for a while to smoke a few Cuban cigars. It was a brisk 38 degrees out so we were bundled in jackets and gloves. As we stood there and talked, I had an urge to be dumb, and this is never a good thing.
In the early days of the war (back when fun was allowed), the palace pool was party central. After the first year of the U.S. presence, books like Imperial Life in the Emerald City were published which pointed out the good times that were being had at the pool.
In typical bureaucratic fashion, it was determined there must be no fun in the war zone. We must focus on our mission, which typically means being miserable even though it is not necessary. I have seen more than my fair share of this ideology since being activated over a year ago…but I digress.
The clearest sign of “fun” was people 'drinking' and jumping off of the high diving board. So rules were passed – “No Drinking” anywhere in Iraq - “Diving Platform Closed”. No one has gone off of that platform in a long time. I have said since I got here, “Before I go home, I will jump off of that diving platform.”
Tonight, there I stood with the realization I had not followed through on this pledge. So I took off my pistol, handed it to one of my buddies, and headed for the board. I climbed to the top, stood there just a moment taking in the perspective I had longed for since my arrival. The only light was the sliver of moon reflecting nicely off of my target below. Splash!! Oh my goodness!! The water was freezing. It took my breath away.
After a few minutes of drip drying, I relit my cigar and finished the chat with my buddies. One of them turned to me and said, “You know, you are the last American to ever jump off of that board.” And that, ladies and gentlemen, is how I made history in Baghdad.
Happy New Year everyone!
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