Sunday, July 20, 2008

Good Morning Iraq...


How to have a perfect morning in Baghdad…

As I stepped outside today at 0430 I was presented with a perfect morning. The sun was not yet up so the temperature was just above 100 with just the suggestion of a gentle breeze. Strangely it felt almost cool. Off in the distance was the coo of pigeons calling to one another while the cloudless sky was scattered with smaller birds at play before the heat of the coming day. There was even an absence of distant gunfire. This will indeed be a beautiful morning.
There is a magical quiet time here when it is light enough that the generators that produce our electricity have been turned of, yet the trucks, troops, and terrors of war are not yet awake for the day.

I was up early so I could get in some physical training, because there is nothing like a quiet run before the IZ comes to life. As I ran though the streets I was welcomed first by my Peruvian guard friends who watch over the area night and day. “Buenos Dias, Hombre!” These guys are always friendly, but with their machine guns at the ready. They have on their floppy "boonie hats" so their "intelligence" tells them there is no insurgent mischief in the works. This is always a good sign.
Passing hundreds of date palms I noticed the harvest is about ready to come in as the brown and green dates have begun to fall to the ground. I picked up a few and carried them with me for a snack later on today. Where else in the world can you get fresh dates like this. This alone has made the run worthwhile.
On my way back in I pass a couple of Iraqis with thier Ak-47s slung across their backs playing soccer in the street using a water bottle for a ball. They smile and wave. "A salama lakum". I respond with, "Lakum a salaam". The game goes on and I finish my run.

After the workout I shower and head into the “chow hall” for breakfast. My father would be happy with the mandatory hand washing station followed by jugs of hand sanitizer. I wash up, scan in my ID card and try to decide what I will have.
At 0530 the building is nearly empty except for the International fare of a few guards and soldiers: Ugandans, Georgians, Australians, Brits, Peruvians, and this American. The state department will not stir for hours so the civilian population is not yet accounted for.
I think I will have an omelet this morning so I step up to the grill and begin pointing at ingredients: cheese, tomatoes, onions, jalapeño and green peppers, and mushrooms. This should be nice and hot. I point, because the Middle Eastern cooks do not speak English. He begins to cook the egg and I step into the next line to order up some bacon, corn beef hash, hash browns, a biscuit and gravy. He still is not finished with the omelets so I step to the next line and choose some French toast over the blueberry pancakes. I pick up my eggs, get a cup of coffee and settle down for a quiet meal. Wow....what a great breakfast...good thing I had that run.

Heading out of the chow hall I follow a Ugandan who not noticing me, lets the door go in front of me. He then notices, turns and begins to apologize, smiling and patting me on the back. I shake his hand, smile and head back to my hooch. On the way I pass the pool where soldiers and marines are swimming early morning laps. I decide to sit on a lounge chair and watch the sun come up over the Tigris River. You always get a great sunrise here. During the summer months there is never a cloud in the sky. Imagine four months of cloud free days.

But there is a price to pay for this. As soon as the sun breaks the horizon the heat immediately begins to mount. I could notice a quick building of heat. This was my signal it was time to head in, change into my combat uniform, and begin the day’s duties.

An hour later as I walk to my duty station, the magic is all gone. There is the rumble of trucks, the roar of helicopters and chatter of distant gunfire. The perfection has been removed by the general mele that is war.
It is nice to get up early and take in the quiet before the day is ruined. It helps me to forget where I am for a few moments, but then it all comes back as the sun rises and we awake to destory the perfection.

I hope you all can have an equally perfect morning.

1 comment:

Laura Hall said...

Sounds like you are on a lovely vacation. I hope you take me back there some day.