Wednesday, December 31, 2008

The Last American...and he was me


Coming soon...



A Little More than a Month of Wednesdays

This is a selection of five really good Wednesdays:

Today is Wednesday the last day of 2008, the longest year of my life.

Happy New Year, 2009! I did not like your predecessor.

Next Wednesday, my replacement arrives from Alabama. I will train him for just over a week.

Two Wednesdays from now is my last day in the Media Operations Center. It will be a sweet farewell.

Four Wednesdays from now our unit will fly out of BIAP (Baghdad International Airport) to Kuwait.

Five Wednesdays from now our unit will arrive at Fort Custer, Augusta, Michigan.

Hump day is a good day.

Daughter and Father meet at Palace in Baghdad

People who have been here for a long time tell me they have seen many news stories of fathers and their sons meeting up in Iraq, but the father and daughter coming together over here is unique.

We had a great visit.



I couldn't be more proud of her.

Go Nanner!!

A Conversation with Violet

I was just in getting a bottle of water when I was sidetracked by a box of microwaveable mac and cheese. Who can pass that up? As my noodles were cooking, in walked Violet, one of our interpreters.

She asked if I was leaving soon to which I smiled and said, “Yes.”

She then started to tell me about how she grew up in Baghdad. “My father was born and raised in Baghdad, and so was I. Before my father, my family has a history of over two thousand years living in what is today the Babil province.”

I asked if she was Shia or Sunni.

She paused then said, “No, Christian. My people converted to Christianity a year before the crucifixion of Christ.”

“So you must be Caldonean.”

Again she smiled, paused with a look, and said, “No, Assyrian.”

Violet told me she spent most of her adult life living in California, first in San Francisco and later in Monterrey, teaching at the Defense Language School.

“Oh, Monterrey, what a beautiful city.”

She again gave me a smile and said, “Oh, how boring it is. People tell me, ‘Go to the beach,’ to which I say, ‘how many days can you watch boats go by: one, two, three.' I decided I must leave to preserve my sanity. You know, I have two sisters and a brother living here in Baghdad.”

“Violet, you must go see them while you are here.”

Again the look, “No, I may be fired from my job or I may be killed for having abandoned my country. I did call them each once. They know I am here, but I cannot go to see them and they are afraid to come to see me. My father ruined my life. He moved me away from this beautiful city when I was just a young woman in the 1980s. He was an older man who was very demanding – many parents do not consider the happiness of their children – my father did not consider mine. I was told to move with him to America and to take care of him.

Soon after I graduated from university, my father, he had a stroke. He had done me wrong and had ruined my life, but he was my father and there was no amount of money anyone could have given me to put him in a home. I cared for him for many more years before he died. Now, even though I can be in my city and live in the beautiful palace of Saddam [that] I used to drive past as a child – we never went in, we had no business there – I cannot live in my city or see my family. It makes me very sad. "

I suggested she should arrange a meeting in which she and her family meet in the center of the July 14 Bridge, the bridge between the Red and Green Zones. They could embrace, talk, and enjoy each other’s company for a few minutes.

She just gave me the smile one more time.

I hope Violet gets to see her family. It must be terrible to be so close, literally just across the Tigris, yet not able to see them.

Monday, December 29, 2008

Nanner arrives in the IZ

Nanner flew up from down south to spend a few days with me here in Baghdad. She arrived after a nice flight on one of these birds.

I must admit, I did not recognize her. She has on more gear than there is of her. Imagine, all that gear on and a smile from ear to ear. Now that is quite an accomplishment over here.




After putting her stuff in a hooch, we headed into the palace Green Beans for a cup of chai and a good conversation.
















I took her to the al-Rasheed Hotel, noted for being the building where Wolf Blitzer reported live during the first gulf war. We werent there to see wolf, rather to visit this great carpet shop. It is incredible. Savannah really had no interest in a rug, but after 10 minutes in there she wanted 5. I will be shipping them home shortly.

She also wanted to play a round of golf at the world famous "Baghdad Country Club". Who was I to deny her. This way we could at least get some use out of all of those golf lessons she had years ago. I see she has mastered the technique for holding your club just right to look really cool. The glasses help too. I think the green needs a little water. We will have to speak to Saddam about that.
You know, you can't take a girl anywhere. One minute we are shopping in a tent for belly dancing outfits Doug has a keen interest in, and the next minute Savannah is hangout out with the Iraqi Army. In Iraq there is always a good deal of bartering. Savannah wanted this picture, the Iraqi guy wanted to boast to his buddies how he kissed an American girl. Deal. I just took the pictures and gasped.
And what would a trip to the IZ and Baghdad be without out the shot of the cross sabres parade ground with Iranian helmets for speed bumps. You look good nanner.
We had a great time.
More to follow.

Thursday, December 25, 2008

Is it Christmas?

The past couple of days have been difficult here in Iraq. We had hoped for a peaceful holiday season especially after the Arabic Hajj had been the most peaceful in a long time. But it seems the insurgents are doing everything possilbe to ruin the holiday by killing Americans on Christmas.

Yesterday morning the first thing I noticed was the Peruvian guards were in 'full battle rattle', body armor, kevlar helmets, and weapons at the ready. We had not seen this posture since back in the fall. Yesterday when I reported in to work we learned that we would be operating under heightened security measures, of which the outcome is we are pretty restricted and when we do move we are armored up.

Today there are no Hadji busses running, we are in IED protected vehicles, and instead of the streets being patrolled by Iraqi security forces, our American boys and girls are spending their Christmas morning checking every vehicle that moves to ensure it is not laden with explosives.

Perhaps this will all be a revelation to me compared the the Christmas' I have come to know in America. Instead of caroling, and families getting together, we will have the experience of the early Christmas' in which you were in fear for your life. What does it feel like to be a hunted Christian, where if you slip up you will be the target? Ah, I remember, Christianity in its origin is a religion of the persecuted. And eventhough this holiday is rocognized as a holiday in Iraq, there will be no WWI-like Christmas truce this year.

Last night I was able to go to the ambassador's Christmas party for an hour. It was as all things in Iraq, rather surreal. The state department workers showed up in their suits and ties, with long trench coats, the women in their gowns. It was much like an affair of state. We, were there in our battle uniforms as were the Marines who guard the embassy. There was a distict difference. There was much great food, which we could have, and much refreshment, which we could not (you have to love GO1) So, no eggnog for us, even though the ambassador repeately invited us to have some.

He did make a few comments. "Christmas of 2007 was the beginning of hope in Iraq and Chrismas 2008 is the realization of that hope... A year ago we were faced with the greatest catastrophy of our generation, but because of your efforts we have turned Iraq into an example of what can be accomplished with hope and perseverence... There are few people in the world who can claim to witness the great events of history- you are the few who can say you contributed to those events".

I had always wondered what conditions surrounded these events. I soon learned. I went back to the media operations center for several more hours. The first thing I learned when I got back was three soldiers had just died today, the frightening part of this for me was where they were killed and what they were in. It matched perfectly where my daughter is and what she does. Merry Christmas. Fortunately for me, I have access to information and was able to confirm it was not my family who would forever remember Christmas as the day their child was killed in Iraq, it would be others. What a miserable realization.

Just after midnight I called for transportation back to my sleeping quarters. My 'sleigh ride' was in an up-armored Chevy Suburban loaded with soldiers in full battle gear all singing "Deck the Halls" as we worked our way through checkpoints. The night sky was lit by a solitary star in the West. No shit. It hovered just over the horizon in the moonless sky. We rambled along bounding from speed bump to checkpoint, laughing, and joking, and singing songs, randomly flashing our 'security badges' to the machine gun toting security checkpoints all along the way... we shall not have our spirits dampened.

When I got back to my CHU I turned on my computer media player and the song that came on was "I'll be home for Christmas...if only in my dreams". How true. I can see how these songs were so popular and have endured because of the WWII generation. There is a whole era who lived not only history, but also, loss, loneliness and postponed Christmas.

Monday, December 22, 2008

It's A Wonderful Life on CNN

It is just past midnight on December 22. My shift is just about over.

I was just in the DFAC. The pancake guy now notices when i come in for midnight breakfast and always puts me on two pancakes before I can even ask him to. It makes him smile to know he knows me. What a great thing a fresly cooked pancake is...
Here in the Media Operations Center we are dealing with the developing events in Iraq and the media who hunger for details and statements. As always we are surrounded with monitors that are showing the reporting of the networks from around the world. CNN is reporting on the escelation of the war in Afghanistan while BBC is reporting on the Iraqi parliament voting to allow the United Kingdom to remain in Iraq.

Because it is almost Chrismas, we have devoted one of the screens, (the biggest one) to watch Frank Capra's 'It's a Wonderful Life'. What would Christmas be without this film. Was there Christmas before George Bailey challenged the 'richest and meanest man in the county'?
It is a stark comparison - rockets in the Gaza strip on one screen while George and Mary sing 'Buffalo Gals' on the other. Bert and Ernie are serenading the newlyweds in the rain is in direct juxtaposition to Sky News reporting on an Iraqi man giving the 'kiss of death' by walking up to a checkpoint, hugging a guard and setting off his suicide vest.
As a child I always hoped that when Potter was defeated at the end of the film by the community coming together, that the world was rid of evil. I guess this is just childish optimism. But that is the offer of the film - the optimism that we can live a 'wonderful life'.

I wonder which is the best moment in the film? As a teenager I always thought it was when George and Mary walked down the street before they fell in love and he made the offer to 'lasso the moon'. Now if every guy could come up with a line like that...

A little later in life I enjoyed the moment when George was planning his great voyage to see the world. Optimism, hope, adventure, these are the things that make life worth living. Do you have a suit case this big?

Even later in life I realized the challenges George faced, everything comes crashing down and it seems the whole world has turned against you, even those you trust the most. How do you redeem yourself? Hope once again prevails.

Which leads me to my favorite moment...When George finds Zu Zu's petals in his pocket. What a moment. That is really the moment that life is all about. When everything is lost but you don't care because you have those who love you. Who needs anything more?
Excuse me, this essay is interrupted by a phone call wanting to know about a developing incident in the Middle East.

CNN reports: Coalition forces have found 2.2 tons of marijuana in a local high school school. What statement would you like to make. "This is an attack on the future of all of Afghanistan", U.S. military spokesman. What else can you say. What hope is there for a country that has nothing? But then, how different are they truly from our nation?

Sadly, now the movie is over. Everyone has come to George and Mary's house. The deeds of a lifetime have paid off in this single moment. The world is a wonderful place.

These are such different worlds - the world of the 1940's and 2008.

It is just days before Christmas and given the choice I would make every screen in the room have a classic Christmas film playing. Not the modern ones, they are too ugly. It has to be a classic: 'White Christmas' or maybe 'Holiday Inn'. Unfortunately, our classic Christmas movie viewing time is over and we must return to the interrupted broadcast of Al-Jazeera.

I wonder what visions of hope they will broadcast tonight?

Merry Christmas!


Sunday, December 21, 2008

Sponsored by Smarties

When you work 14-15 hour shifts you do a lot of snacking. It seems that we are always trying something new. One of our 'care packages' a few months ago had some Smarties in it and they immediately became our favorite.

Now let me say the thing that most people over here miss in the summer months is chocolate. You simply cannot ship it in without it becoming a liquid. One August day last summer I found a rare Hershey bar at the Post Exchange. I thought, here is an unusual treat, so instead of eating it all, I took just one bite. I then stuck it in the cargo pocket of my uniform so it could be enjoyed back in my hooch while watching a movie. This was a mistake.

I headed directly back to my room which is about a 10 minute walk. The temperature outside was 135 degrees. No, you cannot possibly comprehend how hot that is. I thought I could before I got here, but it defies all expectation. At any rate, when I arrived at my room I reached in my pocket to get out the candy bar only to realize my hand was immersed in liquid chocolate. My camera was also in that pocket, now also chocolate coated. This was not good. Not only was it coated, but every little plug in was filled. This was a bad day. After hours of licking the camera was as good as new, and I had enjoyed the chocolate if a completely different way than I thought I would. (just kidding, but I had to throw that in there)

Sorry, I digress.

As I have established, chocolate anything is rare, so we had to go to something more solid. Thus the fascination with Smarties.

We found ourselves going through a bag of Smarties every couple of days. Maintaining the supply became a challenge. So we decided to contact the Smarties company, specifically the Vice President of marketing. We simply let him know that we here at the Media Operations Center live off of Smarties, that their product is having an impact on morale over here. He responded with a case of the candy. And not only did the case have the traditional Smarties, but also experimental kinds like tropical fruit, and super sour. Smarties heaven!

We here at the press desk are now content. We have our case of Smarties - we are munching away like little squirrels. In addition to that the weather has cooled to the point I can put a Hershey bar in my pocked without it becoming liquid. My camera is safe.

Friday, December 19, 2008

Final 5k at the Iraq Presidential Palace


Two days ago I got the flier. Presidential Palace - Final 5K. I thought, this is a must.

I have run a few of the 5k races held here in the International Zone if for no other reason than it seems absolutely the most absurd thing that can be done in the primary target in the middle of a war zone. Perhaps it is American bravado, or simply foolishness.

Maybe it is just me, but it strikes me as so 'downtown America'. Of course the scenery is very different, instead of streets lined with swaying oak trees we have roads boardered by 14ft T-wall barriers topped with razor wire, and this morning, because it was so damn cold, instead of the volunteers handing out water they were handing out hot chocolate. This by the way was a great idea.

The most unusual scene was the spectators. The Peruvian guards who guard the compound were huddled around their burn barrels trying to keep warm. There we were in shorts and t-shirts running the 3.1 mile course while at every checkpoint they stood bundled in winter coats, hats, and balakavas struggling to keep warm. They just looked at us like we were crazy.

This is the last run because the newly signed security agreement hands the International Zone back to the Iraqi Government on Jan 1. So instead of the IZ being what has commonly been called the "Green Zone", it will immediately transform into a "red zone".

Though, I suppose a road race in the red zone may produce some record times.

I think for the "Innauguration 5K", I will hand out hot chocolate.

Wednesday, December 17, 2008

It is winter in Baghdad

We have experienced a 100 degree drop over the past three months here in Baghdad. Last night it dipped to 34 degrees. Freezing in the desert. It just isn't right. I could accept the oppressive heat that greeted you at the door with a whallop, but I just don't know about this.

Last night I got together with a couple of other guys from Michigan to enjoy some Iraqi Chai tea and a good hour of conversation. It was one of those situations where the talk was all about what has been going on over the past week, but by the end it was all about how cold it was. We finally resolved that when we gather next week, there will have to be shelter.

Last week we met on a patio area behine the embassy complex. We were freezing then too, so we found some pallets, busted them up and build a nice fire. I felt like I was in the back yard, except i didn't have a bag of marshmellows or a hot dog roasting on a stick. It was still nice.

The Peruvians who provide our security are really beginning to not enjoy themsleves in the cold. They are bundled up like they are getting ready to go skiing. The area they guard is lit up with burn barrels with them gathered around keeping warm.

I guess being from Michigan the cold should not impact me, but the drastic shift has caught me off guard. So when I got back to my hooch last night, I dug into my ruck sack and pulled out my snivvel gear. Today I am prepared with a full set of long underwear which we call a "ninja suit" because it is solid black and looks really cool when that is all you have on. I also dug out my long desert colored parka and liner. These things were all at the bottom of my belongings, because when I arrived I could not concive that I would ever need them.

It is all good though. It helps with the Christmas spirit. Singing 'Jingle Bells' on a hot day just doesn't work. It is a song best sung when your breath shows.

Monday, December 1, 2008

American Grease


You know, life is good.

Our chow hall is still shut down because of the collapse that resulted from yesterday's hail storm. The nearest chow hall is down the road abit, but I still walked to it only to find there were Cedar Point likelines due to the influx of new diners.

So I decided to just come back to the MOC and pilfer the candy box. But just as I was gumming a chewy Life Saver, one of our Iraqi interpreters came in and handed me a bag containing a Whopper, a large order of fries, and a can of Coke. Hell yeah! I haven't had American grease in nearly a year.
I suppose this kind gesture by the Iraqi is in appreciation for our eliminating a totalitarian government.

Have a good day. Sorry the keys are getting greasy.

Sunday, October 19, 2008

Bib overalls and carbines

Finally, after 171 days of drought it rained today. There are good days even in the desert. Well, you probably wouldn’t call it rain, it was more like a good sprinkle, but the ground was actually wet. People came running through where I work shouting, “It is raining outside!” “Really?” A large group of us gathered outside, and ran around in the rain like children playing in the spring time. I had forgotten that smell and the feel of moisture in the air. It was wonderful.

Soldiers stopped their armored vehicles, took off their Kevlar helmets, while some even removed their body armor to fully appreciate moment. The whole scene reminded me of the pictures I have seen of the famished farmers during the dust bowl of the 1930s. Suddenly we were no longer dressed in combat uniforms, but worn bib overalls and our M-4 carbines were transformed into farm tools. There we stood looking up at the sky, as though we were in complete wonder.

We probably stood there for 15 minutes looking into the sky. We were hypnotized by the mist of the light rain, the gentle breeze, and the sensation of coolness that was brought about by the whole experience. It occurred to me that you can appreciate life’s most simple pleasures if they are absent for long enough.

Even as we stared into the sky we could not resist the urge to spash in the few puddles that had formed. Afterall, we are all just boys, no matter where we may be.

Today is rained, and for a brief moment we were transported in time to our favorite memories of a summer day filled with laughter, wonder, and peace.

Sadly though, just as our days of innocence ended, so must the rain.

.

Tuesday, October 14, 2008

A slice of American pie far from the serving dish

Warning: lots of statistics to follow. To avoid the numbers, skip down about five paragraphs, but then you won’t know what the narrative is about. Let me also say, I am not endorsing either candidate, this is simply a view you probably have not have been exposed to.

I just finished reading an interesting article in Army Times (who also publish Marine Corps Times, Navy Times and Air Force Times) concerning the presidential election. The Oct 13th Exclusive: Backing McCain shows that from a polling of 4300 military members, 68% plan to vote for Senator McCain, while just 23% plan to vote for Senator Obama for President. The remainder were undecided or declined to answer.

The responses were consistent throughout military branches with 68% of Army in support of McCain, 69% of Navy, 67% of Air Force, and 75% of the Marine Corps. When it came to gender, 70% of men were in support of McCain, while 53% of women supported him. When considering age, in the 18-34 age group 65% supported McCain, while in the 35 and older group, 70% were in voting for McCain.

The one demographic that is not planning to vote for McCain in the military is the African –American population in which 79% plan to vote for Obama. All other ethnicities supported McCain by over 58%.

For those of you who like even more numbers, active duty respondents showed 67% support of McCain, the guard and reserve forces 71%, and retirees 72%.

The top three issues cited by military voters were: The character of the candidate with 42% citing this as most important, the economy with 25% saying this is most important, and the war in Iraq third with 16% stating this was most important.

If you managed to get through all of that, you enjoyed math class far more than I ever did.

I am asked this question almost every day. “Who is the military in favor of?” I have always said, I really don’t know, we are not allowed to discuss politics openly. We by our position are apolitical. I had a request by CNN to come to our FOB (Forward Operating Base) to film troops watching the debates, be we had to decline. The reason was because a soldier may make a comment that shows support for one candidate over the other and that footage would be exploited by one or both candidates. CNN then wanted to film soldiers filling out their absentee ballots, but we had to decline on that too. No soldier was willing to take the risk. We do however, highly encourage every member of the armed forces to vote. Everyone who works around me has already mailed in their absentee ballot. It seems that when you live every day as we do, voting is very important, as is freedom, but perhaps not necessarily the kind you are thinking of.

Ok, I can’t resist. Here is one more statistic for your consumption. It is estimated that as many as 70% of Americans base their vote on political party. I know many people for whom this is true. The Army Times survey showed that only 2 percent of the military base their voting decision on party affiliation. Now there is an irony in this. English teacher alert! Members of the military live very structured lives, what many may even say has little freedom. Yet, most Americans in the states believe they live a life of freedom, yet come election day many of those same free Americans shackle themselves to political parties and do not exercise their own judgment concerning the candidate they feel will best lead the country. While we in the military, who live under near authoritarian rule, are not bound by political party affiliation, actually making a freer choice than those back home who are being influenced by unions, churches, or which party our grandfather voted for. Don't worry political parties - when the soldiers get back in "the world" the lessons we have learned will begin to fade and sadly we too will defer our judgement to organizations.

Our new commanding general said in an interview with 60 Minutes he will not vote in national elections any more. He says when he became a general he decided it was best he not vote, instead focus on the job he had sworn to do, to protect and defend the Constitution. You have to respect that.

We in Iraq are far removed from what is deemed important back in the states. There is a lot you find important over there that we just don't understand any more. It is interesting that the military which is commonly referred to as a “slice of America”, holds political differences that are so very different than the America they were cut from. I wonder what changes in the contents of the pie when it is shipped around the world, baked at high temperatures and exposed to extreme violence? All I know is we are somehow changed.

Tuesday, October 7, 2008

In sha la

You know, good things just happen sometimes.

I was just thinking yesterday that my running shoes are getting a little bit old (I bought them August a year ago) and even was shopping for some new shoes on line. Then I got busy and didn't order any.

Last night while walking back to my CHU (Collapsible Housing Unit), I threw some trash in a garbage can. Right there at the bottom of the can I noticed a new pair of shoes. I picked them up and looked them over, they were my size, had not been worn and were a pretty nice pair of Nike running shoes. I walked away at first, then turned and thought, "What the hell." I went back and rescued them from the trash.

I ran in them today and they are great. What a find!

When soldiers are leaving Iraq they throw out everything in order to lighten the load. I guess someone just couldn't fit the shoes in their duffel bag. All I have to say about that is, "Thanks for the shoes. I hope you have a great trip home."

My Arabic friends are always telling me, "In sha la (if it is God's will). A good way to view life I suppose. My take on this discovery is, I guess he wants me to run. So I do.

Wednesday, October 1, 2008

It is beginning to get cold

Whew! We have finally dropped below 100 degrees for the first time since early May.

The average temperature for the Iraqi “three months of Hell” has been 125 degrees with spikes up into the 130s a few times. There are those who say once the temperature gets over 110 degrees you can’t really tell the difference, well, they are full of crap. Hot is hot, but really hot is indescribable.

As I left my hooch this morning there was actually a suggestion of cool in the air mixed with a gentle breeze. A cool 99 degrees. Ahhhh.

The forecast is for us to drop below 90 next week. I think I may freeze. I am going to dig out my winter jacket. That is a 40 degree drop. For you folks used to Michigan summers, this is like going from 70 to 30. Yep, a coat will be in my wardrobe soon.

There is still no forecast for rain. I have not seen a drop of rain since I got here. I am beginning to wonder if it ever rains in Iraq. I think this place is permanently parched. A few drops feel when I was in Kuwait about six months back, but they dehydrated as soon as they hit the Earth, but none for Baghdad for almost 6 months. I think I may just have to take a natural shower outdoors if a storm ever does show up.

Tomorrow is my day off and I will be walking around looking at the sky waiting for something wet to fall. I will bring a towel with me just in case.

Tuesday, September 30, 2008

Tension is in the air

It seems that everything in Iraq is aggressive. There is just something about this place that makes everything want to attack. This is true for the people, the animals, and even the bugs.

I am not even going to get into the mortar shellings, the bombings of innocent civilians, the IED attacks or the random snipers shooting our soldiers as they provide security patrols in the Iraqi neighborhoods. Operational security prohibits me from talking about the missions we undertake every day, besides this is all in the major newspapers. Just pick up a copy of the New York Times, Washington Post, or the Los Angeles Times they give pretty good coverage. Sorry, I digress...

What I am talking about is a behavioral assessment in other conditions, the type I have noticed when I was out on civil aide missions handing out food and supplies to the needy. We would pull up with a load of food, diapers, and clothing but would have to stop handing the stuff out because of the fights that were developing all around us. We would then calm them down, explain to them that everyone would get an equal supply, and then line them up. They acknowledged our rules and agreed to comply. We would again begin handing out the goods, but within minutes the lines would break down and the fights would start. There is nothing quite like watching women dressed like Jesus’ mother Mary in a WWF style brawl fighting over a $.99 cent ball. The crazy thing is after we had distributed everything and ownership had been established they could set that same ball on the ground and no one would touch it. I guess we just don’t understand their rules.

As I was running today I was attacked by Iraqi flies. Now back in “the world” we have annoying flies that try to bite you when you are out for a walk and even the bothersome house fly that buzzes around trying to get a bite off of your plate. I am sure you all have seen the picture of the poor third world kid sitting with flies crawling all over his face and wonder why he doesn't shoo them away. Well I am here to tell you that these little fellows over here are kamikazes. They repeatedly strike right at your face trying to crawl up your nose, in your mouth or lick you in the eyes with their nasty little tongues. Yeah, I know, disgusting. They do not give up. They are aggressive little buggers who when they have spotted a living being are set on getting their share of body fluids before the other creatures in the desert get theirs. I suppose the poor kid in those pictures just gave up on swatting them away.

Yesterday I saw two doves scrapping in the middle of the road. Feathers were flying as I walked by. I don’t know what the fight was about, but neither bird was giving up. I thought to myself, here are doves, the universal symbol of love and peace, locked in mortal combat in downtown Baghdad. Could it be a religious difference, or perhaps one was from the north while the other was from the south. Perhaps they were in an argument about the SOFA agreement. All I know is they were more interested in killing each other than me walking up to them. I made the peace by breaking up the fight and sending them on their way.

I have a theory. The Middle East and particularly Iraq is called the “cradle of civilization”. For humanity to survive and develop a working society there was a need for aggressive behavior to rise above the environment. Life is hard in this dessert. To survive creatures have had to aggressively pursue resources when they are available. Even though we are an increasingly developed world, the situation here has not changed much over the centuries. To survive requires toughness and tenacity in getting what you can. Modern society is a direct product of this aggressiveness that allowed our ancient ancestors to rise from a tribal existence.

I had a conversation with some state department officials yesterday and they said the people of Iraq are not rude, they are desperate, they always have been, and because of the environment this may not change.

Perhaps more than religious divisions, cultural differences, or even racial divides, it could well be that this area is simply prone to tension based on the environment. This is a tension we can thank for the development of our cultural ideologies, but we can be equally thankful our ancestors moved us to places where we can be at peace.

Sorry folks....

I appologize for the delay in postings. I have recently been put into a new position and have been learning the way the military likes best, "drinking from a firehose". As things develop with the new CG more changes are in store. The troop drawdown is directly impacting the way we do business. I will do my best to keep you posted.

Tuesday, September 16, 2008

Change is coming...

I awoke this morning to a blood-orange sky. This was the result of a strong sandstorm that blew in yesterday blotting out the sun, and producing a series of fantastic colors ranging from white-hot, to brown, to an ominous yellow.

These sandstorms are an interesting phenomenon. They take a beautiful day and turn it brown. Even the Americans wear face masks, transforming us into locals, but instead of the familiar red or black checkered face masks of the Arabic world, ours are of course desert camouflage. We still end up with our lungs filled with dirt and spend the day attempting to keep the dirt from filling our eyes. The advantage of the storm is it has dropped the temperature from 128 degrees last week to a very comfortable 108 today. The storm and resulting change of temperature is but a minor adjustment compared to what is in store for us.

I cannot say what the coming days will bring. The winds of change are in place in Iraq: we are getting a new commander, it is the month of Ramadan, attacks are at an all time low, we are drawing down our troop strength, and to top it all off we are getting a new commander in chief elected in just a few months.

What is the future of Iraq? We see agreements and disagreements every day. Violent incidents are at an all time low. There were an average of 1600 violent incidents per week one year ago, we are now averaging under 200. In contrast to this indicator of security improvement, we had yet another female suicide bomber yesterday to destroy the peace. We continue to hand over vast segments of the country to the local governments, putting the Iraqis in charge of their own security. This has been very successful. But it seems that just prior to the handover there is an uprising from the insurgency in an attempt to destabilize the area again. It is almost as though the extremists don’t want Iraqi control. It is almost as though they want a continued Coalition presence so they will have something to fight against. Could it be they need an excuse for their radicalism?

As I have noted before, stability breeds stability. Once areas become safe everyone wants to move there. We heard reports today from young professionals complaining that land prices are too high in the safe areas. Strangely, this is a positive indicator. The market has always been dictated by desirability. So if prices are rising in segments of Iraq, this means there are areas that are very desirable. People are returning to neighborhoods they abandoned years ago only to find squatters living in their homes. It has been pretty simple to solve though. Usually no litigation is even necessary. People want their old neighbors back regardless of their religious beliefs. What was a stable neighborhood before the war can safely become stable again when the same people live there. So the locals are literally driving the squatters and insurgents from their streets.

Of course the question is, can it last? Will be stay here long enough to ensure the improvements can gain a solid footing. I can assure you everyone wants to go home, but we want to make sure the work we have given so much of our lives to will last. The soldiers who have served in Iraq want the pride of a WWII veteran, not the pride mixed sorrow of those who struggled in Vietnam.

We are almost there in Iraq, but changes are happening.

Tuesday, September 9, 2008

The dreaded "sheeb"...and Elvis spotted in Iraq

We hear sheeb are on the loose in Anbar, preying on the local Iraqi population.

Local Iraqis in the Anbar province are reporting that the U.S. military has introduced predatory animals called “sheeb” into the area. They claim the sheeb have wounded a number of local people.

That’s right folks, “sheeb” not sheep. The locals insist that these animals resemble wolves and have collars proving they are not wild animals but rather animals used by U.S. forces in search operations. Others insist the sheeb have “a ring in their neck” to allow the military to control their aggression.

They said the animals attacked at dawn a few days ago in the Garma area, 15 km north of Fallujah, injuring five people and “acting in a brutal and very frightening manner”. A medical source in Garma hospital said “five people including a woman were injured as a result of an attack by predatory animals called sheeb.”

Last summer, local Iraqis near Basra were reporting the British had introduced “giant man-eating badgers”. The local media gave the story a good deal of attention.

And you wonder where some of the conflicting reports that come out of this war originate.

This is the kind of fun reporting that makes my day brighter. Don’t laugh too much, though. The next time you are in the checkout line at the grocery store, look to your right and left. See all of those sensational stories. I think the Iraqis are just learning from us. Everyone likes a good story.

I am going to ask my Iraqi friends if they have spotted any UFO’s, Bigfoot, or maybe even Elvis. I hear he is doing shows up in Ba’qubah.

Monday, September 8, 2008

Selling live bait...

Every waking moment over here is filled with work for anyone in a leadership position. It seems the only time our mind is allowed to wander is during meals and that is because most of us choose to sit by ourselves so we can have a little “alone time”. When the guy I replaced was familiarizing me with my duties he pulled me aside and told me to make sure I took some time for my self every day. He said those who do not are broken by this place. I have taken his advice and make sure I get that time as often as possible.

Today at lunch I went by myself. The “chow hall” is always packed with thousands of people coming and going. It is an impressive operation that produces really good food for a massive number of people. I went right at noon to try to avoid the crowd but really that is not possible. Today they were serving baked trout, Hungarian Goulash, and the ever popular Arabic Bar which is daily during the month of Ramadan. Not a bad spread at all.

Usually you can get a small table to yourself but not today. From across the room I spotted an open seat, went to it and placed my tray on the table. As I sat I looked up at the gentleman across the table from me. He was the second in command for all of Iraq. I said to myself, “Crap!” Then I looked right and left noting the table was filled with stars and eagles - Colonels and Generals - not the quiet meal types. Out of politeness I said, “You boys don’t mind if I sit here do you?” and then gave a nervous smile. Lunch suddenly became tense for me. I decided to quietly sit and listen. It is not every day you get to interact with a guy who regularly makes conference calls with the president of the United States.

The first few minutes were all about business, but then even their conversation shifted to going home. Many at the table plan to retire after the war. Each was talking about the executive level jobs they would take when they returned to the states as so many others have done. But the top general just laughed and said all he planned to do when he got home was to open a bait shop in the middle of nowhere, Georgia. The others said, "Oh yeah there is a lot of money to be made in marketing lures." He laughed again and said, “Oh no, I don’t plan to sell anything except live bait so I can throw it all out a the end of the week.” He then added, “If I sell lures I have to take inventory, and when I get home from this I don’t want to have to think about anything ever again.” He was dead serious.

I remember the hero from "Band of Brothers", Maj. Dick Winters, said when the war was over all he wanted to do was move to a quiet location and spend the rest of his life with his mind at peace, just enjoying the company of his wife and children. That is exactly what he did.

Time in war takes its toll on us all. No matter what the level of responsibility the experience wears on us. Weekly I see fresh optimistic soldiers arrive and watch worn our soldiers leave. In the closing weeks the faces look blank. How you deal with it when you get home makes all the difference in the rest of your life.

The general has a plan; I have a few ideas myself.

Sunday, September 7, 2008

Earning U.S. citizenship the hard way

One of the surest and fastest ways gain U.S. citizenship is to earn it by serving a tour with the U.S. military in Iraq or Afghanistan.

At a ceremony just a few days ago at al-Faw Palace on Victory Base 192 service members from 54 different countries were sworn in as U.S. citizens. At the ceremony each new citizen was presented with a certificate of naturalization to make it all official.

We who are guaranteed this privilege by our birthright take for granted what many are in the world see as the ultimate goal. What speaks more loudly than "I am willing to give my life to be able to call myself an American"?

One of our translators is from Tunisia. Both she and her husband decided they wanted more for their future children than north Africa could provide, so they joined the U.S. military together. We have a heavy demand for anyone who is fluent in both English and Arabic. These linguists patrol with us as we move through the streets of Iraq to allow us to interact with the people. This is an important yet dangerous job. Some have been killed, but died in pursuit of their lifetime dream. It is moving to know what some people will do for their future generations.

This is a great plan. There are millions of people wanting to become citizens. So they are allowed to prove thier committment. Nothing speaks more loudly than putting your convictions on the line by serving the nation you wish to call your home. It seems a small price to pay for a lifetime of freedom and the freedom of your children. What a great immigration plan.

Recruiting stations are struggling to lure American citizens to do the work our elected officials have called us to do. Statistics show that seven out of ten 17-24 year old Americans are deemed unfit for duty due to physical, mental, or moral limitations. Perhaps the international community has something to offer beyond products for the shelves at Wal-mart and at the gas we put in our cars. They are providing human capital to fill another niche we cannot.

So if you know someone who says they are willing to do anything to become an American. Tell them to give Uncle Sam a call and they will be sworn in as a U.S. citizen about as far away from America as you can get. But when they return to their new home when their deployment is over, they will have realized one dream and can begin at a whole new level that is only offered in America.

Monday, September 1, 2008

Sunnis pledge peace in Anbar

We handed over control of Anbar Province in a ceremony today in Ramadi, a city which has seen some of the heaviest fighting of the war in Iraq. The handover of a province means the Iraqi Security Forces take the lead in the governmental and security issues for the area.

My role in this event was to facilitate media coverage for the event. This has made me very popular and hated at the same time. Because of the need to transport so many government officials and military leaders we could only provide transportation to eight members of the media. My first task was to invite those eight reporters to join us in an Osprey flight out to Anbar. The road to Ramadi is still pretty dangerous so flying is the best option. Because of the security surrounding the event; I had to get them to commit to attend “a major media event”, without knowing what it was.

FOX news immediately replied,”Yes!” and got two of the seats but one major network would not commit unless we gave them specific details. They were just being difficult. The rumor mill over here is unbelievable, so they had to have a pretty good idea what was coming up. I asked again. I then got a call from the their bureau chief still saying if I would not give specific details they would not commit. I just said, “OK”. I scratched them off the short list. I simply cannot put the lives of our soldiers in jeopardy just so some members of the media cannot operate without details. We had already gotten a commitment from BBC for two of the seats, Associated Press had committed to one, and Reuters to the last. A New York Times and AFP reporter had been begging, but I told them it did not look likely. But with the noncommittal of the major network I called them and talked to two of the happiest reporters in the world. The next day the network called back wanting to know if the seats were still available. They were stunned when I told them they had been taken, but I was adding their name to the waiting list below The Christian Science Monitor, NBC, Time Magazine, and NPR.

We build the list based in hopes of achieving the broadest coverage possible. BBC and AFP are watched much more in the international community and FOX is “fair and balanced”. Right. But that was why we wanted the other major network, so we could cover the U.S. with the two extremes in reporting.

In the end I was able to get one additional seat for a “pool video reporter” who had agreed to provide reporting for all of the networks. And in a last minute surprise AP gave up their seat for a “pool photographer” from Getty Images. I was impressed by the willingness of AP to support all of the media in the war zone, and disappointed in AFP who called repeatedly refusing to share their product. That was until I reminded them we were providing free travel and access and there were many others who would gladly take their place. They decided to share.

The handing over of Anbar is exciting news for Americans who wonder when the war will be over. This is the 11th province we have returned to Iraqi control. It is significant because it is the first Sunni majority province to pass back to the Iraqis. If this goes well, the rest will follow quickly. We are looking at handing over three more before the end of the year. Once the Iraqi government has proven it can govern fairly and control the insurgency, we will all be going home. We are finding that peace produces more peace; the idea is spreading throughout the country that has grown weary of fighting.

For Michigan readers, you will be interested to know there are over 1000 Michigan Army National Guard members working out of Anbar. The Marine Corps would like for everyone to believe they are the only ones in the province. What is great is the Marine command put the Flint National Guard Infantry unit in Ramadi, the most difficult location in the province. I guess even Marines know tough when the see it. "We are from Flint, Michigan." says it all. I know most of the soldiers in the 125 because I commanded their Headquarters Company for two years. There are some damn fine soldiers in that unit and they have definitely proven themselves here in Iraq. After the sacrifices Michigan has made to Iraq, it is fitting our boys play a role in the significant event of the year.

Monday, August 25, 2008

A visit by Condi...


We had a visit from the Secretary of State a couple of days ago. She was in Baghdad to negotiate the Strategic Forces Agreement which when signed will allow U.S. troops to remain in Iraq after this year.

She had flown into BIAP (Baghdad International Airport) from signing the recent missile defense system agreement with Poland. She met with Prime Minister Maliki for few hours and then came to the CPIC to hold a press conference. Of course it was not that simple. Though we are inside what is considered a secure area, there were hours of inspections of the place to ensure it was safe. It seems safe enough for us is not safe enough for a government official. None the less, we did get a nice visit from the bomb dog who was quite friendly, and who by the way found the premises free from explosives.

The press turn out was rather large. More than we have seen in our time here. As expected all of the questions were related to the contents of the agreement and when will it be signed. Her response, “It will be done when it is done.”

I have worked quite a bit on this agreement myself. Not the negotiating part of it but the public affairs end. It is focused on quite a bit over here, but seems to be virtually unheard of back home. I was stunned when I got here to realize we have to be out of the country by Dec. 31st, 2008 if the Iraqi Government does not invite us to stay. The United Nations mandate that allows us to remain here runs out on that date. I remember thinking, Whoo hooo! I guess we are going home. No, not so fast. And then I thought, since we have a Democratic Senate, they won't sign a treaty that keeps U.S. forces here. Wrong again. I have learned in my exposure to U.S. foreign relations that what I learned in my government classes is not necessarily true. While the U.S. Constitution directs that treaties must be ratified by the senate, all the executive branch has to do is simply not call it a treaty. So instead they call it an agreement. What is the difference you may ask? Nothing. Just the name. So it is called the Strategic Forces Agreement instead of the Strategic Forces Treaty which in both cases is signed by the governments of both nations and dictates relations between them, but in this case it skips the whole bothersome bit of Senate approval. Nicely done. So much for that whole separation of powers and checks and balances bit.

The treaty, woops sorry, agreement has been held up quite a bit on details. Of particular trouble for the Iraqi government has been the issue of immunity, air space, bases, and Iraqi public opinion. There are quite a few private security firms operating over here and the Iraqis want to make sure that the next time they gun down a car load of civilians they will not be protected by immunity. We have not had a good record of convicting contractors or rogue soldiers who have allegedly committed crimes. So the Iraqi government is refusing to sign the document until the immunity clause is removed. They also want to reduce the number of U.S. forces on the ground. There is much talk about us being out of the Iraqi cities by next summer and completely out of the country by 2011, but that will all be worked out in the agreement.

This is all particularly touchy for the elected officials over here. A similar agreement was signed with the British government back in the 1920’s that the Iraqis have not forgotten. There are constant comparisons to the “British Mandate” which brought about rebellion and the beginnings of the middle-eastern hate for the west. The similarities are striking. Will history repeat itself?

There were renewed protests in Sadr City after prayer on Friday. Al-Sadr who earlier agreed to a cease fire is again inciting his followers to speak out against what he calls the “American occupation” of Iraq because of the agreement talks. And to go with the protests we have again been introduced to a renewed effort to blow us up with mortar and rocket fire. I sure did miss those midnight sprints to the bunker.
As the CG always says, "Nothing is easy in Iraq." There are just so many players who want control. It gets rather bothersome that political posturing continually gets in the way of the good of the people. I wonder if what is best for Iraq can also be best for America - or does it really matter.

What will come from all of this? Even at the highest levels no one seems to know. But I do know we will still be here after December.

Wednesday, August 20, 2008

Iraq in August...

Another tough night for one of our boys. They have seen much and have served with the highest of distinction. I cannot say enough good things about the honorable service of our Soldiers, Sailors and Marines. They make us all proud.

My buddy Lieutenant Commander David Russell and I flew a few flags from the US embassy to mail to those who have been especially supportive of our service here in Iraq.

Please fly them with pride when they arrive. They have flown in the face of the enemy.

I especially like this shot of Iraqi soldiers literally helping an old lady across the street. We really are all the same, with the same values, though we fail to see it sometimes.

This is the old and the new of Iraq. Many in this country still use donkeys for their transportation. Not much of a change since Mary rode one into Bethleham two thousand years ago to give birth to Jesus. And behind the little burro is the newest vehicle in the US army, the MRAP (Mine Resistant Ambush Protected). These new vehicles are responsible for saving many American soldier's lives. The donkey...he just makes us smile.

In case you didn't notice, it is time for school. These Iraqi girls are lined up to receive school supplies sent to the children of this nation by many of you. Thank you.

These kids love school. This whole nation is devoted to education. I suppose oppression creates desire. In a joint venture with the government of Iraq we have opened hundreds of new schools this year.

Thursday, August 14, 2008

Shots of Iraq in August

I have said it many times and it is so true I will say it again, the kids of Iraq love the American soldier.











You just never know what you will run into on patrol.
















This aircraft was damaged when landing so it had to be demolished to clear the runway.



Water, water, everywhere.....water is as important as bullets over here... 125 degrees takes its toll on you. You can never have enough to drink. This soldier is ready.







This is the safest view you can take of Baghdad. I have taken this aireal journey to the IZ many times. The unique beauty of the city never fails to grab me. Besides, we have to look for the guy who may want to shoot you down...

Monday, August 11, 2008

A Good Birthday Froking...Whooo Hoooo

The whole birthday party was a pretty funny thing. Laura wanted to make sure I had a good time so she set up a suprise party for me...rather long range. She coordinated for the past few weeks with some of the guys I work with to pull the whole thing off.

She sent them some cash so they could go out and purchase party favors for the group. She sent a powerpoint slide show with loads of embarrassing photos carefully choreographed to fitting music. She and Sami ordered a banner to be displayed at just the right time. And she sent some very inappropriate reading material. (Which is very popular by the way).

So the day started like any other, we arrive at 7 to listen to the BUA (Battle Update Assessment) which is over an hour of the commading general discussing all of the developments throughout the country. This can be rather long and tedious, but is necessary to be able to do the job. At the end of the BUA the chief stands up to gives the orders of the day for about 5 minutes, but today he and another soldier put up the banner Laura had sent, which was accompanied by the Bee Gees singing Saturday Night Fever and the beginning of the slide show. My boss who is a crusty old active duty Army guy, with 30 years of hate built up inside of him, came into the room saying, "What the Hell is going on in here?" He had heard the sounds of happiness and was intent on stopping that right now. But there was something about the pictures of family that immediately softened him. He just stood there and stared. When it was over he yelled, "Hall, come over here!" in his usual tone of scream, so I figured this would be fun. I love screwing with him. There is nothing worse than a career Army guy trying to deal with a National Guard guy who just doesn't take this whole Army thing too seriously. "Yes, Sir." "Damn it, I want you to".....long pause...."tell who ever did that".....another long pause....."that was damn nice." Then he turned and walked away. I thought I saw a tear there for just a second...

Then the boys handed me a package that had pasted on it a quote from General Order #1. "The introduction, purchase, possession, transfer, sale, creation, or display of any pornographic or sexually explicit photograph, videotape, CD/DVD, movie, drawing, book, magazine, or similar representation depicting pornographic or sexually explicit material shall not be allowed." I slowly opened the package, and inside was the July issue of Playboy Magazine. The war suddenly stopped. I was surrounded by some very eager Soldiers, Sailors, and Marines who had not seen a woman in quite some time. Well not in this way at least.

Now my wife is pretty cool, but I didn't think she was willing to supply me with a book load of femaleness to get me through the tour, so I knew something had to be up. She had taken every page, and every girl, even every advertisement and sanitized them. I mean really, how hot can even the hottest woman on earth be if she has an image of John McCain glued over her finest photographic qualities? The best part was the center fold. "Miss July" had a nice pair of..... compact disks for her bikini top, but there was still hope because she just had a sticky note for her bikini bottom.

Everyone knows how easily those are removed. So as a Marine hand reached from behind me to peal it away, he was bitterly disappointed to find, pasted under the sticky note but over Miss July's.....the snorting ass that is a logo for the US Army, and written neatly above her bikini line the words..."Nothing to see here!" Now you want to see a bunch of disappointed troops, then cover up Miss July.

One eager troop turned the page and removed a picture of two puppies that were glued over a model's...well....two puppies....only to realize these pictues were double protected because a black sharpie had scribbled out the image. Everyone had a laugh and went on with the business of the day.

The day was busy with several major news events occupying our time, but at the end of the day there was to be partying. One of our navy guys was being promoted early because of his position, which is called a "froking". We celebrated in proper style with "near Beer" (non-alcoholic) and several trays of Iraqi food which one of our interpreters had brought in. It was great fun, the merging of two parties into one....a birthday celebration combined with a promotion party and all the beer you can drink...but without the intended effect.

After the food was all cleaned up, a group of us went outside to smoke a few of the Cuban Cigars Laura had asked one of the guys to pick up for me. So there we were drinking "near beer", laughing as we thumbed throgh Laura's creative destruction of the Playboy bunnies to make them Iraq appropriate, and smoking Cuban cigars.

Rather a strange sight we were, but to add to the fun was a small group from the Italian Army sitting near us. Two of them were arguing rather loudly. We turned to see what was disrupting our peaceful moment when crashing into our table came an Italian soldier, knocked there by his Italian girlfreind who is also in their army. "Excuse me" (say this with your best Italian accent) Then looking at us and throwing his hands in the air he said, "Mama Mia! (he really said that) Italian women are crazy! Don't ever get involved with one!"

As the night wore on we continued to enjoy the Italian opera which ended as all great shows, with a burst of anger, followed by a kiss, and an exit to where only our imaginations could take us.

It was yet another surreal Iraqi moment as we ended the day drinking legal German beer, smoking Cuban cigars, eating Arabic food, and watching Italians fight and fall in love again.

What a great day, and certainly one I will remember for a long time. The gifts were great. I received 3 bags of chocolate candy (very difficult to get over here) a box of Captain Crunch (from the Cousins family-Thanks!), a dozen Cubans, an embarrasing presentation of great memories, a magic carpet, and 61 birthday cards from some of the nicest people in the world. Thank you all for your support and thoughts. Thank you Sami and Laura for orchestrating such a great day even though I am half a world away. You all made a great day for a soldier far from home.

Sunday, August 3, 2008

English Teacher... Even in Iraq (with addendum)


I just got in from teaching my English class to Arabic students.

What a great experience. Sgt. Murphy and I teach the class twice a week to a group of 20 members of the Arabic media who want to learn English so they can better interact with U.S. forces and diplomats. They are phenomenal students. I have taught everything from summer school to AP Language, but I have never encountered a more eager group of students.

Today when I closed class with my parting, “Ma a salaama”, while placing my hand on my heart and extending it toward them, the class all said, “No! Please, we want more class.” (Obviously, I have a long way to go) They began a series of questions about past, present, and present progressive verbs. After I answered those questions and gave many examples, they gave me an essay on spiders and asked me to read it to them as they followed along. They then asked me to quiz them on the essay. I kept saying, “alle”-“Class is over”- “alle” It was lunch time, the meal was waiting, but none of them would leave.

I had to get them out because we had two generals conducting a press conference in 20 minutes. They finally put away their books, but still did not leave. The class then lined up and one-by-one walked up to me to thank me for teaching them. Yeah, this happens after every class. This is the class ritual. So I shook the hand of every man and placed my hand over my heart for each of the women. I am certain my students back home will do the same when I get back next winter.

It is difficult for them to get to class though. This is not because they don’t want to come, but because they risk their lives to come. They have to travel through some of the most dangerous parts of Baghdad to get there. Some days my students do not make it, because they have been threatened for “cooperating with the Americans”. They take it most seriously when their families are threatened. (But I am still tough, and am standing by Kearsley High School’s eight-absences-and-you-are-dropped policy.)

One of the men did not come for several weeks. We were told he had been killed because he had been attending my class. Sadly the possibility was so real that we accepted it. How do you deal with that? Thankfully it was not true. Imagine, students risking their lives and those of their families so they can learn. I just don’t know if I am good enough of a teacher to be risking that much. But, I have prepared myself for something horrible to happen to at least one of them this year.

The biggest problem I face is a common problem for all teachers. There is just such a range of students. I have those who can almost carry on a conversation in basic English, all the way down to a man who just looks at me and points to the (usually wrong) words on the page. But he tries. There is probably more chatter than most teachers would be comfortable with as I introduce new words. Especially since my Arabic is very weak. There is a whole bit of commotion and pointing at words, and sometimes almost an argument between them about the Arabic meaning. But then they smile and turn back to me to let me know they have settled it and want more.

The female students are a whole different challenge. In Iraqi culture it is inappropriate to make eye contact with a woman who is not your wife. American teachers are all about eye contact. That is how we know the student understands. But here we are not even supposed to speak to them. But I do. I just see them all as I remember my aunts back in the 1960’s, as the women sit in class with their scarves and head coverings. The most difficult case is a woman from Saudi Arabia. She knows no English, cannot even repeat after me. It seems the words just will not form in her mouth. She comes to class dressed in the full jet black, head-to-toe burka. She tries, but the cultural barriers are insurmountable.

So for those of you who thought I may lose my teaching touch while here, rest assured, I am getting some of the most challenging practice possible. Besides, it is a weekly reminder of what a great profession teaching is. It is inspiring to see the risks these people of Iraq will take to attend class.

After class today one of the men pulled me aside to show me a picture of his sister in America. “Dearborn. My sister lives Dearborn." He pointed and smiled, "This her child in favorite place.” She was sitting in a 2nd grade classroom. Then he proudly announced, “She top of class.” He explained how important education is to his family. Then he said, “You will help get my children to America? I promise, they will be best in their class.”
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Addendum: Today in class we had several students missing. At the end of class two of the men came rushing in apologizing about being late. When asked what happened one of them responded, "A bomb! We were attacked by a bomb!" He looked a little rough, and scared, but alive. And belive it or not, he still came to class. You have to love these people. Later in the day in the news there were reports of the explosion resulting in 6 people killed.

Wednesday, July 30, 2008

Come, they told me...

There was a bit of a birthday party here in Baghdad today celebrated by over 1 Million Iraqis who follow the Shi’a sect of the Islamic faith.

The pilgrimage across the Tigris River on the newly-rebuilt Sarifiyah Bridge and the subsequent celebration had all the qualities of the famed marches on Washington, D.C. back in the 1960’s. It was evident the Iraqi people are moved by their faith and are willing to show it publicly.

The celebration was for the 7th Imam, Musa ibn Jafar al-Kadhim, who served as the spiritual leader for all Shi’as for 35 years until his death in 799 C.E. His caliph is known as a time of much peace through his leadership, so he came to be called the “calm one”.

Musa al-Kadhim was famous and well known among the people for his generosity. He set free over one thousand slaves and was known to pay the debts of those who were poor. One of his most noted quotes is "The best generosity is the help to the oppressed."

There is a story of how al-Kadhim was honored with the kings gifts on the Persian New Year known as Norouz. The chieftains, dignitaries and nobles one by one presented their gifts of great riches. Finally, an old man came forward and said, “Oh son of the Islamic Prophet Mohammad, I do not have anything from this world to present to you, but I have composed a few poems to honor our faith which I have brought as a gift. Al-Kadhim was so moved that he presented all of the gifts and riches he had been given to the old man. He then said, “I bestow these gifts upon you, so that you are freed of poverty and hardships."

I know, I know, It is just like the little drummer boy…well almost…and we wonder where these stories come from…

But al-Kadhim also is known to have said, "The world is soft and beautiful like a snake, but there is a fatal poison hidden inside."

And this held true in the celebration this past week. As the crowds gathered in Baghdad, two Sunni terrorists took the opportunity to destroy the opposing faith. A bomber waited until several thousand people had moved into a street enclosed by buildings on both sides of the street. The woman then moved into the crowd and detonated the explosive vest laden with nails she was wearing under her robes. The explosion killed some within the crowd and sent the rest running toward the other end of the street. There a second bomber waited until she was surrounded by the rushing crowd than she detonating her suicide vest. The total carnage was 44 killed and 227 wounded. There were reports of others dying from their wounds later that night, but I have no confirmation.
Stunning.
It took hours to identify the body of the bomber. Soldiers and police had to sort through the debris and torn flesh to identify one body from the others. There is not much left after a person detonates herself.
This is what we face. There will be calm and a return to normalcy to the point the people feel comfortable enough to engage in celebrations that have been recognized for centuries. Then a small minority will seize the opportunity to destroy the peace.

I wonder what al-Kadhim would think about this. But then I don’t think the terrorists would care. Their aim is to disrupt faith, which is directly in contrast to the teachings of the 7th imam.

Suprisingly, the pilgrimage did not stop. The people continued to come through the next day to the Khadamiyah Shrine, to honor the “calm one”, to continue their prayers for peace, to maintain their faith even is the face of terror.

This is what faith allows us to do.