A year in a life...just another guy in Iraq

So Long Kuwait!

2009-01-31T05:48:00.004+03:00

We are out of here. I will see you all back in the states in a couple of weeks.

As a final bit of irony, yesterday I awoke to a thrunderstorm here in the Kuwaiti desert. It was complete with high winds, thunder, lightning, and of course a driving rain.

I am off to my final breakfast and then to see my good friends at U.S. Customs.

Next stop - somewhere in Indiana.

American Troops and Fast Food

2009-01-27T13:56:00.004+03:00

The tent city I currently live in has everything you need to live comfortably. We are living 16 men to a tent, have running water bathrooms a few hundred yards away, and chow served four times a day. There are two USO tents with television sets, video games, pool and ping pong tables, and even a makeshift movie theater. Next to these two tents are a cardio tent and a weight lifting tent. All of this surrounds a collection of hadji shops, a PX and even a string of fast food restaurants to include: McDonalds, KFC, Taco Bell, Pizza Hut, a doughnut shop and even a 'fruu fruu' coffee shop. I can feel myself getting fat just smelling all of the grease and sugary sweetness.

What more could you ask for? Freedom, yes. But that will come in a few day. First we have to readjust to living in America. And what more adjustment is there than eating like an American?

What I find remarkable is that food is provided free in the 'chow hall', but dozens of soldiers are lined up at the fast food restaurant just outside around the clock. McDonalds has the longest lines. It must be some sort of a connection to childhood memories.

Of course my troops are no different. They can be found daily in the picnic area, munching on a bag of greasy American fast food. Most of the troops lost considerable weight in the last year, now they are working quickly to restore those lost pounds, American style.

And we think we can get American students in our schools to eat healthier if we provide more appealing choices in our school cafeterias. Not a chance. At our chow hall in Baghdad, they would serve T-bone steaks and crab legs on Sunday nights, but our young soldiers would be lined up at the Burger King across the street to buy thier food instead.

I met an Egypitan man yesterday I had worked with during the past year. He is very disturbed by what he calls "American's need for consumption". "How can it be that right there is very good free food, and these American young people will spend their money on food that is not as good?" I told him we are trained from a very young age to love the 'golden arches'. He got a bad look on his face and said, "Foolishness!"

I went in one of the shops yesterday and the local national who worked there was eating traditional arabic food. I asked him where I could get some of that. He said they are not allowed to bring it on the base because "your stomach will get upset".

What a shame, I am in the middle of the middle east and all I can get to eat is American food.

Gates of Hell

2009-01-27T00:17:00.007+03:00

Today I took a trip down to Camp Arifjan in southern Kuwait. It was a couple of hour bus ride on a coach with big windows so I was able to take in the the countryside as we rode along.

What was so incredible to me at first was just how much Kuwait is built around oil while maintaining their heritage. Now I knew it was an oil country, but I had not idea just how much. As you travel Kuwait you will see two things: oil industry and Kuwaiti tents.

The desert people of Kuwait live part of the year in tents scattered across the landscape. There you are driving across a vast expanse of desert and smack in the middle of it sits a group of tents. I was notified that these people have homes nearby but to stay connected to their customs and traditions they live in these tents part of the year. Next to the tents is a water trailer, and more often than not a Mercedes Benz or a BMW.

As we got south of Kuwait City the presence of the oil industry intensified. I remember as a child as we drove through Ashland, KY there was a large oil refinery there on the banks of the Big Sandy River, but the ones in Kuwait go on for miles. Miles and miles of drilling platforms, refineries, and burn-off towers. The later was much more interesting as I was returning "home" to Ali al-Saleem tonight. The evening sky appeared on fire, with towers of flame lighting the horizon. It seemed that all of Kuwait was on fire. Remarkable.

It is a strange relationship we have with Kuwait. They are a muslim nation with a large population of radical Islamic believers, yet as was proven in 1991, they need the protection of the United States from their neighbors even as they protest our presence in their country.

Transient Housing

2009-01-25T10:22:00.004+03:00

You know, the problem with transient housing is just that, it is transient. Last night we were all bedded down for the evening when at 1:32 in the morning a plane load of infantrymen came rolling into our tent. Now a reasonable person would get out a flashlight, find a bunk and go to sleep. Not these guys. They had a mountain of gear and were not completely settled until after 3 a.m.

The joy did not stop there. You don't appreciate relative quiet until it is absent. There were two snorers in the group. These guys were serious about their snoring. At first I though it would pass, but when I left the tent earlier this morning, they were still at it.

We were cordial enough about their intrusion and disruption of our quiet and solitude. They were not pleased with our early morning wake up though. 0600 - lights on - soldiers going for showers, PT, getting dressed, cleaning weapons. They just kept looking at us, one finally asking us to please be quiet and turn off the lights. We just smiled and said, "Sorry, we have work to do." They groaned, rolled over and tried to go back to sleep. One advantage, the snoring stopped, though a little late. If it starts again tonight, I think we will turn on the lights and clean our weapons. If we have to be awake and miserable, they may as well be too.

I think they will be moving out soon. That is the good thing about transient housing. Your neighbors aren't your neighbors for long.

Ali al-Saleem with Dirty Dozen

2009-01-24T21:53:00.007+03:00

Yesterday we arrived at Ali al-Saleem airbase in Kuwait with my 12 troops who make up our advance party. I was not originally scheduled to leave early, but was pulled in and told the troops who were going out early needed "adult supervision" - so they sent me? Go figure. I literally am here with our 'dirty dozen' - the angry, bitter and depressed. I was told I am "uniquely qualified" to deal with these young soldiers and to get them safely out of Iraq. I was told, "They like you and will do what you ask of them; if we send them with anyone else there will be trouble."

Sometimes it pays to be a teacher. And these 'kids' have loaded guns.

We had a uneventful flight on the C-130 Hercules that flew us out of Baghdad. I used to jump out of them years ago when I was in an airborne unit, now I just enjoy the ride.

I love the "jump seats" piled with bodies and gear, with everyone leaning on one another as we tried to catch a little nap on the way down. Now that is real flying: the roar of four turbo props chopping at the air as they wind up the engines with the brakes held tightly until it feels like the plane will shake apart, then suddenly they release and you are nearly thrown from your 'seat'. And no C-130 trip is complete without the stong smell of jet fuel. Ahhhh!! That takes me back to my youth.

As we climbed on board the Air Force guys who were loading the cargo smiled and said, "Look at her, she is the finest piece of equipment the taxpayers could buy in 1974." Oh great, I am flying out of a war zone on an airplane that is 35 years old. You can't scare me, a few years back the tank I was using was make in 1957. I guess we build them well for the military or we take damn good care of them. They sure keep going.

When we arrived at the air base we ate some 'Jimmy Dean' meals and then were put up in 'transient tents' to await the arrival of our rear detachement who are due next week. We are doing some outprocessing while we wait for their arrival. Mostly there is some quiet time to adjust to the absence of someone shooting at you. I can see value in this. It is nice to have the relative quiet. I gladly trade the sound of exploding mortars, rockets, and car-bombs for the quiet hum of generators and military transport aircraft taking troops home.

To help them readjust, I have pretty much cut the troops loose. Their requirement is for them to check in with me once a day to verify they have positive control of their 'sensative items': gas mask, machine gun, pistol, and ammunition. Each day I inform them of any briefings they need to attend. Other than that they are free to roam the base which is surrounded by miles and miles of the most barren desert you can imagine. Not even a camel in sight. They were all quite content when I last saw them this afternoon.

I will let you know how it goes.

Mission accomplished - Inshala

Finally Heading Home - Goodbye Baghdad

2009-01-22T21:29:00.003+03:00

After being away from home for over a year, I began my journey home today. I only got about 10 miles down the road, from the center of Baghdad in the IZ out to Liberty Base where the airport is. Tomorrow we fly out for Kuwait and I say goodbye to Baghdad.

Tonight my troops are sleeping in tents, living out of their ruck sacks, and eating MRE's, but that is ok. It is the price to be paid for going home.

This afternoon as we were signing in for our tents we were notified there is a 'Stars for Stripes' (USO) show tonight. When 8 p.m. rolled around we went to their tents to round the troops ufup for the show, but most of them were sound asleep - tough day. So in the end just me and two of my buddies went.

We were right at the stage throughout the entire show. The lead act was the country group Lonestar. I must say they put on one hell of a show. It is cold tonight and you could tell they were noticably freezing, but they kept on playing. The sets they played were a mix of their hits followed at the end of the show by some serious jamming of classic rock.

I have to admit, I almost didn't go. I have never been much of a Lonestar fan. And I have noticed through life that many stars I thought I liked, but when I met them they just didn't measure up. This was just the opposite case with this group. They were a bunch of really nice guys. The were humble, polite, and genuinely friendly before, during and after the show. There was not doubt they were southern with their conversation filled with lots of "y'alls".

The lead singer stopped in the middle of one of his songs when he made a mistake, looked out at the audience and said, "This is making me really nervous. I have never played in a place where every person in the audience has a gun. If we suck, you guys might shoot us."

This was a great way to finish our time here in Iraq - jamming to some good tunes, freezing to death in the desert, helicopters flying overhead, smoke and dust filling the air, and the sounds of gunfire all around the city. You rock Baghdad!

You Have Been In Iraq Too Long When...

2009-01-21T11:29:00.003+03:00

Here are some thoughts some of the guys I work with came up with:

• When mortars land near your compound and you roll over in bed and think "still way off, I have another five minutes"

• When you start humming with the Arabic song playing on the radio on the Hadji bus

• Every woman that reports to your unit starts looking attractive

• Every guy that reports to your unit starts looking attractive

• You volunteer for convoy security duty because you haven't seen the country yet

• You start picturing your wife in traditional Arab dress

• You drink the water from the tap because you want to drop 20 pounds in two weeks

• Driving around in SUVs with weapons pointed out the windows and forcing cars off the road seems very normal to you

• You can put your body armor and helmet on in the dark in under 5 seconds

• When you start to enjoy the rocking of the trailer every time the MEDEVAC choppers fly over

• You enjoy the audience commentary while watching a movie bought at Hadji mart

• You're thinking of buying real estate in the green zone

• You make the new guy show you his “doughnut of misery” just to make you feel better about your time left in country

• You plan on removing all trees and grass in your yard when you get home so it will look more natural

• The temp drops down to 102 degrees and you shiver while reaching for your Gortex jacket

• When you call home and your kids ask "Who is this?"

• When 12 hours is a short work day

• When, During the BUA, "DIV asked MNSTC-I for the FRAGO that MNC-I was supposed to publish, but couldn't because MNF-I hadn't weighed in, since they were too inundated with MOD and MOI war-gaming the JCCs within the ISF to square us away!" is a valid comment and generates no questions.

• When you start using words like G'day mate, Cheers, and Bloody hell as part of your normal vocabulary – love the coalition partners!

• When you can actually tell the difference between the sound of an exploding car and an exploding mortar

• You see an indirect fire attack take out an air conditioner and your vigor to fight is renewed

• You know that you need to run inside immediately after any win of an Iraqi sports team to keep from being hit by celebratory fire

• You decide for entertainment – let’s take a run around Lost Lake at Camp Victory to see if we can get shot at by the sniper

• You never worry about oversleeping because if the morning call to prayers doesn't wake you, the daily 0430 mortar attack will

• A rocket or a mortar really isn't a big deal until the crater it leaves is big enough to trip over in the dark on the way to the latrine

• You go to a social gathering and intermittent gun fire or explosions don't even cause a pause in the conversation

• You believe that Stop signs are really just a suggestion

• Right-away on the road is not determined by who was there first, rather by who's bigger and has more guns.

It is time for me to come home.

2009-01-16T10:47:00.002+03:00

Less than two weeks left in the middle east and the mortars and rockets came flying in again last night. I really didn't miss them.

Stupid Soldier?

2009-01-14T00:51:00.004+03:00

We get in replacements all the time. It is a constant flow of those going home and those just arriving. It is so routine that we really don't think much about it - until yesterday.

We got a message yesterday afternoon from a new troop who had just arrived at BIAP (Baghdad International Airport) who said he had just flown in. We called back to the liaison we have stationed over there to give instructions to the new guy. We were told he had gone to chow.

Good deal. He knows where the chow hall is.

So we left a message with the guy at the airport to tell the replacement to go to Striker Stables and catch the midnight rhino (armored car) over to the IZ (international zone). This involves catching a couple of buses across Victory Base, but people do it every day.

At midnight, we were waiting for this guy to get off the rhino, but he was not there. We figured he must have "missed the bus" so we called over to Striker Stables to schedule him on the morning run. They informed us he had never checked in.

Day one and already lost in Iraq. This is cause for immediate concern! Was he lost or abducted?

After a bit of a search, we discovered that he had gotten on the next flight back to Kuwait. "What? No you have to be kidding." So we waited until the flight arrived and called into air ops down in Kuwait and, sure enough, there he was.

He said he didn't know what to do, and no one was there to tell him what to do, so he got on the next plane out of the country.

Now at this point I was thinking, "Is that all you have to do to get out of here?"

He didn't know what to do so he decided the best course of action was to go to a completely different country. Wow!

We scheduled him on the next plane out of Kuwait back to Iraq. This time we told him to check in at the same desk he had in his first trip and not to move from that spot. I suggested they tie him to a chair.

Meanwhile, we sent someone across Baghdad to escort him to the IZ. In five years literally millions of soldiers have come through Iraq and this is the first time we have had this happen. And this guy has been in the military for over 10 years.

Now, mind you, a year ago I could understand maybe getting off of the plane and being frightened enough to catch the next one out of town, but the shelling has almost stopped. Now there is a general absence of mortar and rocket fire. Besides, he had tasted the chow. He must have known we eat better in Iraq than they do down in Kuwait. Food, shelter, and nobody shooting at you--I just don't understand.

This guy is replacing our computer technician who left last week. He has a lot of work to do; I have my concerns. But then again, this guy has to be an absolute computer genius because he has no common sense.

Or he is the smartest guy to come to Iraq so far because he had the shortest tour of any soldier in this war. That is until we turned him around.

It is going to be a really long year for him.

We have nicknamed him "Boomerang".

A Visit with Nanner at Kalsu

2009-01-10T00:48:00.006+03:00

Here are a few pics of Nanner and me having a great time at Kalsu. This is Savannah and her MRAP (Mine Resistant Ambush Protected) truck. She always wanted a really big 'truck' to drive around in. Now she has one that is bullet and bomb proof. This thing can withstand explosions better than a tank. What a lucky girl!

For Christmas I sent Savannah a box of 7" Churchill Cigars. We enjoyed a couple while sitting on top of her truck enjoying the Iraqi night sky. I see a very expensive habit forming. You have to admit, she looks good sporting a stogie.

She couldn't wait to get me into the 'bomb suit'. This thing is designed to prevent your insides form turning to 'goo' in the event a large explosion goes off near you while you are dismantling a bomb. I say, "Cut the red wire, no wait the blue on." It was unbelievbly heavy.

This is a shot inside Savannah's hooch holding and surrounded by her favorite things: pictures of Doug and Tim, her mug always filled with some serious mud, and goodies mailed from home.

Just before I left tonight, we sat on the mine rollers on the front of one of the MRAPs, smoked a pipe (more bad habits) and watched the artillery boys shoot illumination rounds. What a great way to spend a couple of days with your daughter.

She is doing great and works with some really nice people. I especially liked her platoon sergeant .

Flag Raising at New Embassy in Iraq

2009-01-06T01:52:00.006+03:00

Flanked by Iraqi and American flags, Ambassador Ryan Crocker, Iraqi President Jalal Talibani, and Deputy Secretary of State John Negraponte dedicated the American Embassy in Iraqi today by a United States Marine Corps color guard raising the American Flag.

It was an opulent affair, the sort one only reads of in novels. Surrounding the 40 foot flagpole was a stage for the dignitaries. From the stage leading down the road for several hundred yards was an 8 foot wide red carpet. Off to one side were two enormous tents with the floor completely covered in red carpet. To the side of the tent was coffee and tea served in cups with saucers, served up by third country nationals. To the rear of the tents was the wine and champagne area. Through the center of the tent was hordurves , a combination of American ‘finger foods’ and Arabic specialties.

In the front corner, closest to the stage was the dignitary area, filled with Iraqi cabinet ministers, generals, and sheiks. Of course they were screened by agents with the obligatory ear piece, sunglasses, and a no-nonsense look on their face.

The style of the day was either modern digitalized green or desert tones for the military folks or black dresses and jackets for the state department attendees. In footwear it was swede boots for the military and the State Department were wearing heels for the women and oxfords for the men.

There was this one security guy/soldier from somewhere in the Balkan states, who I must say had some real military flair. He had a full beard, a pistol strapped on each hip, a machine gun like I have never seen before slung across his back, and what appeared to be a mixture of standard military issue uniform and his own Arabic concoction. I got the feeling he was a modern T. E. Lawrence. He was cool and looked like he really wanted somebody to do something stupid so he could ‘do his job’.

Following a few opening remarks by the Ambassador, Deputy Secretary of State John Negraponte spoke briefly about the history of relations between the U.S. and Iraq to include his time served as the first Ambassador to Iraq following the U.S. invasion in 2003. He had some pretty good style going on too. Most of his outfit was typical business attire, but he was capped by a stylish flat brimmed brown fedora. Now who can get away with that but John Negraponte and my dad.

As these functions are expected to go, there was a round of speeches.

"The return of the Republican Palace to the government of Iraq last Thursday and the raising of the flag over a new embassy four days later are potent symbols of this record of achievement," Negroponte said as the opening speaker in the ceremony. He was followed by President Talibani.

"Allow me to express our firm belief that America's history will have a most favorable view of the liberation of Iraq," Talabani said, "and the creation of a democratic, federal and independent Iraq which will serve as a model to be emulated by other peoples of the eastern world." The closing remarks were then made by Ambassador Crocker.

Of the 120 years since the United States first established a diplomatic presence in Baghdad, Crocker said, "no period has been more intense, more challenging or more promising than that since April 2003. And of that period, perhaps no single week has been more important than this past one."

Following the speeches the 4th Infantry Division Band played the Iraqi National Anthem. Out of respect for Iraq many U.S. service members saluted. This was followed by Christian Lilley, an employee of the U.S. state department singing the American national anthem.

I have witnessed many flag raisings in my life, this one was different. The bold colors of our flag enhanced by a bright Iraq sun, set off by the crisp dress blues of the Marine color guard was a stunning sight to witness. What struck me was just how white the stripes of the flag were as it was slowly raised and was caught by the gentle Iraqi breeze.

The U.S. has its first diplomatic relations with Iraq in 1889 with the appointment of Consul John Henry Hayes. Our first bilateral treaty with Iraq was signed by U.S. President Herbert Hoover in 1934. The U.S. severed relations with Iraq in 1967, but resumed in 1984 until the beginning of the Gulf War in 1991. The U.S. Embassy again opened in 2004 at the former Presidential Palace, and today moved to its permanent location on the banks of the Tigrus.

Being the ‘tourists’ that we are, and not being raised to move in such circles, we had a good time eating cake, bite size funny tasting foods, Chai tea, and took the opportunity to get our photos with the ‘celebrities’ of the war in Iraq.

I am beginning to feel a lot like Forrest Gump.

What if America Won a War and Nobody Noticed?

2009-01-04T00:45:00.021+03:00

What if America won a war and nobody noticed - or cared?

What is the definition of victory in Iraq? During the rise of the insurgency and later with the escalation of sectarian violence, the number of bombs exploded and murders committed per day were the definition of loss. Most everyone was pointing at the disaster in Iraq, at the failure of our military, at the 'quagmire' we had found ourselves in just a year ago.

If you compare 2007 to 2008 you will discover a stunning change of events. Violent acts committed across Iraq and in Baghdad are down 93% from one year ago. Sectarian violence is down 98% from one year ago. Only 7% of the murders and shootings that happened a year ago happened this year. Only 2% of the violence based on race or religion was committed this year compared to last year.

Can any nation in the world make this claim? If the performance of the U.S. military, state department, and Government of Iraq is compared on any standard, it is remarkable. Nobody gets these kinds of results. Can you imagine a 93% increase in student performance at a school, and to make the comparison correct, in the worst school in the nation? How about a 98% in violence in our cities?

And this was accomplished in a place that everyone had given up as lost.

Baghdad is a city of 7.5 million people. The suburb of Sadr City has 2.5 million people. These are ancient areas with tensions dating back thousands of years yet there is a real effort to create peace in their neighborhoods.

The government of Iraq last year produced four times as much legislation as the United States Congress. Much of this was directed at social programs, civil projects and efforts to empower those who for generations had no voice. There is genuine progress being made over here.

But the question persists, what is enough? When will America look across the seas to a land most cannot comprehend, and realize what has happened here.

Perhaps the war has become too political.

I really have to wonder if we have won the war, but nobody noticed.

More pics of Nanner on our visit in Baghdad

2009-01-03T13:31:00.005+03:00

Here are a few more shots of Nanner from her visit to the IZ last week. Fortunately while she was here we never needed the use of one of these bunkers.

This is a shot of Savannah just before she got on the helicopter to fly back to Iskandariyah. She looks ready!

This is a shot of Nanner as we were having dinner by Saddam's pool. We had a nice chat over milkshakes. I sure did hate to see her go.

New Year's Eve: Major "Polar Bear" Makes History in Palace Pool

2009-01-01T17:39:00.006+03:00

Today is the last day of 2008. The United Nations resolution that allows the U.S. to be here expires at midnight tonight. Beginning tomorrow, we are here as “guests” of the people of Iraq.

Today, the American flag was lowered at the Presidential Palace which has served as the seat of the U.S. presence in Iraq. Just yesterday, Savannah and I were walking the grounds of the palace; today they are gated and walled by 14 foot barriers to keep the Americans out for the first time since the occupation.

Tonight was a beautiful very Arabic looking night. As I looked to the sky there was the crescent moon flanked by a shimmering planet, both just above the horizon, nicely framed by palm trees on one side and the palace on the other.

Tonight the entire city of Baghdad sounded like major combat was happening. The sound of AKs filled the night. There were thousands of shots every minute. I was surrounded by gunfire. The Iraqis were celebrating both the New Year and their sovereignty. I can appreciate that. Meanwhile, we were in body armor and combat helmets to protect us from the hail of bullets that was raining down all over Iraq tonight.

In a strange way, this was a good thing. In a strange way, this hail of fire was a sign of our success. We should have felt out of place on this night.

Tonight a couple of my buddies and I went to the palace dining facility for our ‘last supper.’ After dinner, we took a walk around the pool and stood around for a while to smoke a few Cuban cigars. It was a brisk 38 degrees out so we were bundled in jackets and gloves. As we stood there and talked, I had an urge to be dumb, and this is never a good thing.

In the early days of the war (back when fun was allowed), the palace pool was party central. After the first year of the U.S. presence, books like Imperial Life in the Emerald City were published which pointed out the good times that were being had at the pool.

In typical bureaucratic fashion, it was determined there must be no fun in the war zone. We must focus on our mission, which typically means being miserable even though it is not necessary. I have seen more than my fair share of this ideology since being activated over a year ago…but I digress.

The clearest sign of “fun” was people 'drinking' and jumping off of the high diving board. So rules were passed – “No Drinking” anywhere in Iraq - “Diving Platform Closed”. No one has gone off of that platform in a long time. I have said since I got here, “Before I go home, I will jump off of that diving platform.”

Tonight, there I stood with the realization I had not followed through on this pledge. So I took off my pistol, handed it to one of my buddies, and headed for the board. I climbed to the top, stood there just a moment taking in the perspective I had longed for since my arrival. The only light was the sliver of moon reflecting nicely off of my target below. Splash!! Oh my goodness!! The water was freezing. It took my breath away.

After a few minutes of drip drying, I relit my cigar and finished the chat with my buddies. One of them turned to me and said, “You know, you are the last American to ever jump off of that board.” And that, ladies and gentlemen, is how I made history in Baghdad.

Happy New Year everyone!

The Last American...and he was me

2008-12-31T20:39:00.003+03:00

Coming soon...

A Little More than a Month of Wednesdays

2008-12-31T18:21:00.013+03:00

This is a selection of five really good Wednesdays:

Today is Wednesday the last day of 2008, the longest year of my life.

Happy New Year, 2009! I did not like your predecessor.

Next Wednesday, my replacement arrives from Alabama. I will train him for just over a week.

Two Wednesdays from now is my last day in the Media Operations Center. It will be a sweet farewell.

Four Wednesdays from now our unit will fly out of BIAP (Baghdad International Airport) to Kuwait.

Five Wednesdays from now our unit will arrive at Fort Custer, Augusta, Michigan.

Hump day is a good day.

Daughter and Father meet at Palace in Baghdad

2008-12-31T11:39:00.004+03:00

People who have been here for a long time tell me they have seen many news stories of fathers and their sons meeting up in Iraq, but the father and daughter coming together over here is unique.

We had a great visit.

I couldn't be more proud of her.

Go Nanner!!

A Conversation with Violet

2008-12-31T02:40:00.008+03:00

I was just in getting a bottle of water when I was sidetracked by a box of microwaveable mac and cheese. Who can pass that up? As my noodles were cooking, in walked Violet, one of our interpreters.

She asked if I was leaving soon to which I smiled and said, “Yes.”

She then started to tell me about how she grew up in Baghdad. “My father was born and raised in Baghdad, and so was I. Before my father, my family has a history of over two thousand years living in what is today the Babil province.”

I asked if she was Shia or Sunni.

She paused then said, “No, Christian. My people converted to Christianity a year before the crucifixion of Christ.”

“So you must be Caldonean.”

Again she smiled, paused with a look, and said, “No, Assyrian.”

Violet told me she spent most of her adult life living in California, first in San Francisco and later in Monterrey, teaching at the Defense Language School.

“Oh, Monterrey, what a beautiful city.”

She again gave me a smile and said, “Oh, how boring it is. People tell me, ‘Go to the beach,’ to which I say, ‘how many days can you watch boats go by: one, two, three.' I decided I must leave to preserve my sanity. You know, I have two sisters and a brother living here in Baghdad.”

“Violet, you must go see them while you are here.”

Again the look, “No, I may be fired from my job or I may be killed for having abandoned my country. I did call them each once. They know I am here, but I cannot go to see them and they are afraid to come to see me. My father ruined my life. He moved me away from this beautiful city when I was just a young woman in the 1980s. He was an older man who was very demanding – many parents do not consider the happiness of their children – my father did not consider mine. I was told to move with him to America and to take care of him.

Soon after I graduated from university, my father, he had a stroke. He had done me wrong and had ruined my life, but he was my father and there was no amount of money anyone could have given me to put him in a home. I cared for him for many more years before he died. Now, even though I can be in my city and live in the beautiful palace of Saddam [that] I used to drive past as a child – we never went in, we had no business there – I cannot live in my city or see my family. It makes me very sad. "

I suggested she should arrange a meeting in which she and her family meet in the center of the July 14 Bridge, the bridge between the Red and Green Zones. They could embrace, talk, and enjoy each other’s company for a few minutes.

She just gave me the smile one more time.

I hope Violet gets to see her family. It must be terrible to be so close, literally just across the Tigris, yet not able to see them.

Nanner arrives in the IZ

2008-12-29T02:40:00.008+03:00

Nanner flew up from down south to spend a few days with me here in Baghdad. She arrived after a nice flight on one of these birds.

I must admit, I did not recognize her. She has on more gear than there is of her. Imagine, all that gear on and a smile from ear to ear. Now that is quite an accomplishment over here.

After putting her stuff in a hooch, we headed into the palace Green Beans for a cup of chai and a good conversation.

I took her to the al-Rasheed Hotel, noted for being the building where Wolf Blitzer reported live during the first gulf war. We werent there to see wolf, rather to visit this great carpet shop. It is incredible. Savannah really had no interest in a rug, but after 10 minutes in there she wanted 5. I will be shipping them home shortly.

She also wanted to play a round of golf at the world famous "Baghdad Country Club". Who was I to deny her. This way we could at least get some use out of all of those golf lessons she had years ago. I see she has mastered the technique for holding your club just right to look really cool. The glasses help too. I think the green needs a little water. We will have to speak to Saddam about that.

You know, you can't take a girl anywhere. One minute we are shopping in a tent for belly dancing outfits Doug has a keen interest in, and the next minute Savannah is hangout out with the Iraqi Army. In Iraq there is always a good deal of bartering. Savannah wanted this picture, the Iraqi guy wanted to boast to his buddies how he kissed an American girl. Deal. I just took the pictures and gasped.

And what would a trip to the IZ and Baghdad be without out the shot of the cross sabres parade ground with Iranian helmets for speed bumps. You look good nanner.

We had a great time.

More to follow.

Is it Christmas?

2008-12-25T11:10:00.007+03:00

The past couple of days have been difficult here in Iraq. We had hoped for a peaceful holiday season especially after the Arabic Hajj had been the most peaceful in a long time. But it seems the insurgents are doing everything possilbe to ruin the holiday by killing Americans on Christmas.

Yesterday morning the first thing I noticed was the Peruvian guards were in 'full battle rattle', body armor, kevlar helmets, and weapons at the ready. We had not seen this posture since back in the fall. Yesterday when I reported in to work we learned that we would be operating under heightened security measures, of which the outcome is we are pretty restricted and when we do move we are armored up.

Today there are no Hadji busses running, we are in IED protected vehicles, and instead of the streets being patrolled by Iraqi security forces, our American boys and girls are spending their Christmas morning checking every vehicle that moves to ensure it is not laden with explosives.

Perhaps this will all be a revelation to me compared the the Christmas' I have come to know in America. Instead of caroling, and families getting together, we will have the experience of the early Christmas' in which you were in fear for your life. What does it feel like to be a hunted Christian, where if you slip up you will be the target? Ah, I remember, Christianity in its origin is a religion of the persecuted. And eventhough this holiday is rocognized as a holiday in Iraq, there will be no WWI-like Christmas truce this year.

Last night I was able to go to the ambassador's Christmas party for an hour. It was as all things in Iraq, rather surreal. The state department workers showed up in their suits and ties, with long trench coats, the women in their gowns. It was much like an affair of state. We, were there in our battle uniforms as were the Marines who guard the embassy. There was a distict difference. There was much great food, which we could have, and much refreshment, which we could not (you have to love GO1) So, no eggnog for us, even though the ambassador repeately invited us to have some.

He did make a few comments. "Christmas of 2007 was the beginning of hope in Iraq and Chrismas 2008 is the realization of that hope... A year ago we were faced with the greatest catastrophy of our generation, but because of your efforts we have turned Iraq into an example of what can be accomplished with hope and perseverence... There are few people in the world who can claim to witness the great events of history- you are the few who can say you contributed to those events".

I had always wondered what conditions surrounded these events. I soon learned. I went back to the media operations center for several more hours. The first thing I learned when I got back was three soldiers had just died today, the frightening part of this for me was where they were killed and what they were in. It matched perfectly where my daughter is and what she does. Merry Christmas. Fortunately for me, I have access to information and was able to confirm it was not my family who would forever remember Christmas as the day their child was killed in Iraq, it would be others. What a miserable realization.

Just after midnight I called for transportation back to my sleeping quarters. My 'sleigh ride' was in an up-armored Chevy Suburban loaded with soldiers in full battle gear all singing "Deck the Halls" as we worked our way through checkpoints. The night sky was lit by a solitary star in the West. No shit. It hovered just over the horizon in the moonless sky. We rambled along bounding from speed bump to checkpoint, laughing, and joking, and singing songs, randomly flashing our 'security badges' to the machine gun toting security checkpoints all along the way... we shall not have our spirits dampened.

When I got back to my CHU I turned on my computer media player and the song that came on was "I'll be home for Christmas...if only in my dreams". How true. I can see how these songs were so popular and have endured because of the WWII generation. There is a whole era who lived not only history, but also, loss, loneliness and postponed Christmas.

It's A Wonderful Life on CNN

2008-12-22T00:04:00.015+03:00

It is just past midnight on December 22. My shift is just about over.

I was just in the DFAC. The pancake guy now notices when i come in for midnight breakfast and always puts me on two pancakes before I can even ask him to. It makes him smile to know he knows me. What a great thing a fresly cooked pancake is...

Here in the Media Operations Center we are dealing with the developing events in Iraq and the media who hunger for details and statements. As always we are surrounded with monitors that are showing the reporting of the networks from around the world. CNN is reporting on the escelation of the war in Afghanistan while BBC is reporting on the Iraqi parliament voting to allow the United Kingdom to remain in Iraq.

Because it is almost Chrismas, we have devoted one of the screens, (the biggest one) to watch Frank Capra's 'It's a Wonderful Life'. What would Christmas be without this film. Was there Christmas before George Bailey challenged the 'richest and meanest man in the county'?

It is a stark comparison - rockets in the Gaza strip on one screen while George and Mary sing 'Buffalo Gals' on the other. Bert and Ernie are serenading the newlyweds in the rain is in direct juxtaposition to Sky News reporting on an Iraqi man giving the 'kiss of death' by walking up to a checkpoint, hugging a guard and setting off his suicide vest.

As a child I always hoped that when Potter was defeated at the end of the film by the community coming together, that the world was rid of evil. I guess this is just childish optimism. But that is the offer of the film - the optimism that we can live a 'wonderful life'.

I wonder which is the best moment in the film? As a teenager I always thought it was when George and Mary walked down the street before they fell in love and he made the offer to 'lasso the moon'. Now if every guy could come up with a line like that...

A little later in life I enjoyed the moment when George was planning his great voyage to see the world. Optimism, hope, adventure, these are the things that make life worth living. Do you have a suit case this big?

Even later in life I realized the challenges George faced, everything comes crashing down and it seems the whole world has turned against you, even those you trust the most. How do you redeem yourself? Hope once again prevails.

Which leads me to my favorite moment...When George finds Zu Zu's petals in his pocket. What a moment. That is really the moment that life is all about. When everything is lost but you don't care because you have those who love you. Who needs anything more?

Excuse me, this essay is interrupted by a phone call wanting to know about a developing incident in the Middle East.

CNN reports: Coalition forces have found 2.2 tons of marijuana in a local high school school. What statement would you like to make. "This is an attack on the future of all of Afghanistan", U.S. military spokesman. What else can you say. What hope is there for a country that has nothing? But then, how different are they truly from our nation?

Sadly, now the movie is over. Everyone has come to George and Mary's house. The deeds of a lifetime have paid off in this single moment. The world is a wonderful place.

These are such different worlds - the world of the 1940's and 2008.

It is just days before Christmas and given the choice I would make every screen in the room have a classic Christmas film playing. Not the modern ones, they are too ugly. It has to be a classic: 'White Christmas' or maybe 'Holiday Inn'. Unfortunately, our classic Christmas movie viewing time is over and we must return to the interrupted broadcast of Al-Jazeera.

I wonder what visions of hope they will broadcast tonight?

Merry Christmas!

Final 5k at the Iraq Presidential Palace

2008-12-19T13:11:00.004+03:00

Two days ago I got the flier. Presidential Palace - Final 5K. I thought, this is a must.

I have run a few of the 5k races held here in the International Zone if for no other reason than it seems absolutely the most absurd thing that can be done in the primary target in the middle of a war zone. Perhaps it is American bravado, or simply foolishness.

Maybe it is just me, but it strikes me as so 'downtown America'. Of course the scenery is very different, instead of streets lined with swaying oak trees we have roads boardered by 14ft T-wall barriers topped with razor wire, and this morning, because it was so damn cold, instead of the volunteers handing out water they were handing out hot chocolate. This by the way was a great idea.

The most unusual scene was the spectators. The Peruvian guards who guard the compound were huddled around their burn barrels trying to keep warm. There we were in shorts and t-shirts running the 3.1 mile course while at every checkpoint they stood bundled in winter coats, hats, and balakavas struggling to keep warm. They just looked at us like we were crazy.

This is the last run because the newly signed security agreement hands the International Zone back to the Iraqi Government on Jan 1. So instead of the IZ being what has commonly been called the "Green Zone", it will immediately transform into a "red zone".

Though, I suppose a road race in the red zone may produce some record times.

I think for the "Innauguration 5K", I will hand out hot chocolate.

It is winter in Baghdad

2008-12-17T13:53:00.002+03:00

We have experienced a 100 degree drop over the past three months here in Baghdad. Last night it dipped to 34 degrees. Freezing in the desert. It just isn't right. I could accept the oppressive heat that greeted you at the door with a whallop, but I just don't know about this.

Last night I got together with a couple of other guys from Michigan to enjoy some Iraqi Chai tea and a good hour of conversation. It was one of those situations where the talk was all about what has been going on over the past week, but by the end it was all about how cold it was. We finally resolved that when we gather next week, there will have to be shelter.

Last week we met on a patio area behine the embassy complex. We were freezing then too, so we found some pallets, busted them up and build a nice fire. I felt like I was in the back yard, except i didn't have a bag of marshmellows or a hot dog roasting on a stick. It was still nice.

The Peruvians who provide our security are really beginning to not enjoy themsleves in the cold. They are bundled up like they are getting ready to go skiing. The area they guard is lit up with burn barrels with them gathered around keeping warm.

I guess being from Michigan the cold should not impact me, but the drastic shift has caught me off guard. So when I got back to my hooch last night, I dug into my ruck sack and pulled out my snivvel gear. Today I am prepared with a full set of long underwear which we call a "ninja suit" because it is solid black and looks really cool when that is all you have on. I also dug out my long desert colored parka and liner. These things were all at the bottom of my belongings, because when I arrived I could not concive that I would ever need them.

It is all good though. It helps with the Christmas spirit. Singing 'Jingle Bells' on a hot day just doesn't work. It is a song best sung when your breath shows.

American Grease

2008-12-01T00:29:00.002+03:00

You know, life is good.

Our chow hall is still shut down because of the collapse that resulted from yesterday's hail storm. The nearest chow hall is down the road abit, but I still walked to it only to find there were Cedar Point likelines due to the influx of new diners.

So I decided to just come back to the MOC and pilfer the candy box. But just as I was gumming a chewy Life Saver, one of our Iraqi interpreters came in and handed me a bag containing a Whopper, a large order of fries, and a can of Coke. Hell yeah! I haven't had American grease in nearly a year.
I suppose this kind gesture by the Iraqi is in appreciation for our eliminating a totalitarian government.

Have a good day. Sorry the keys are getting greasy.

Bib overalls and carbines

2008-10-19T02:27:00.008+03:00

Finally, after 171 days of drought it rained today. There are good days even in the desert. Well, you probably wouldn’t call it rain, it was more like a good sprinkle, but the ground was actually wet. People came running through where I work shouting, “It is raining outside!” “Really?” A large group of us gathered outside, and ran around in the rain like children playing in the spring time. I had forgotten that smell and the feel of moisture in the air. It was wonderful.

Soldiers stopped their armored vehicles, took off their Kevlar helmets, while some even removed their body armor to fully appreciate moment. The whole scene reminded me of the pictures I have seen of the famished farmers during the dust bowl of the 1930s. Suddenly we were no longer dressed in combat uniforms, but worn bib overalls and our M-4 carbines were transformed into farm tools. There we stood looking up at the sky, as though we were in complete wonder.

We probably stood there for 15 minutes looking into the sky. We were hypnotized by the mist of the light rain, the gentle breeze, and the sensation of coolness that was brought about by the whole experience. It occurred to me that you can appreciate life’s most simple pleasures if they are absent for long enough.

Even as we stared into the sky we could not resist the urge to spash in the few puddles that had formed. Afterall, we are all just boys, no matter where we may be.

Today is rained, and for a brief moment we were transported in time to our favorite memories of a summer day filled with laughter, wonder, and peace.

Sadly though, just as our days of innocence ended, so must the rain.

.

A slice of American pie far from the serving dish

2008-10-14T19:01:00.010+03:00

Warning: lots of statistics to follow. To avoid the numbers, skip down about five paragraphs, but then you won’t know what the narrative is about. Let me also say, I am not endorsing either candidate, this is simply a view you probably have not have been exposed to.

I just finished reading an interesting article in Army Times (who also publish Marine Corps Times, Navy Times and Air Force Times) concerning the presidential election. The Oct 13th Exclusive: Backing McCain shows that from a polling of 4300 military members, 68% plan to vote for Senator McCain, while just 23% plan to vote for Senator Obama for President. The remainder were undecided or declined to answer.

The responses were consistent throughout military branches with 68% of Army in support of McCain, 69% of Navy, 67% of Air Force, and 75% of the Marine Corps. When it came to gender, 70% of men were in support of McCain, while 53% of women supported him. When considering age, in the 18-34 age group 65% supported McCain, while in the 35 and older group, 70% were in voting for McCain.

The one demographic that is not planning to vote for McCain in the military is the African –American population in which 79% plan to vote for Obama. All other ethnicities supported McCain by over 58%.

For those of you who like even more numbers, active duty respondents showed 67% support of McCain, the guard and reserve forces 71%, and retirees 72%.

The top three issues cited by military voters were: The character of the candidate with 42% citing this as most important, the economy with 25% saying this is most important, and the war in Iraq third with 16% stating this was most important.

If you managed to get through all of that, you enjoyed math class far more than I ever did.

I am asked this question almost every day. “Who is the military in favor of?” I have always said, I really don’t know, we are not allowed to discuss politics openly. We by our position are apolitical. I had a request by CNN to come to our FOB (Forward Operating Base) to film troops watching the debates, be we had to decline. The reason was because a soldier may make a comment that shows support for one candidate over the other and that footage would be exploited by one or both candidates. CNN then wanted to film soldiers filling out their absentee ballots, but we had to decline on that too. No soldier was willing to take the risk. We do however, highly encourage every member of the armed forces to vote. Everyone who works around me has already mailed in their absentee ballot. It seems that when you live every day as we do, voting is very important, as is freedom, but perhaps not necessarily the kind you are thinking of.

Ok, I can’t resist. Here is one more statistic for your consumption. It is estimated that as many as 70% of Americans base their vote on political party. I know many people for whom this is true. The Army Times survey showed that only 2 percent of the military base their voting decision on party affiliation. Now there is an irony in this. English teacher alert! Members of the military live very structured lives, what many may even say has little freedom. Yet, most Americans in the states believe they live a life of freedom, yet come election day many of those same free Americans shackle themselves to political parties and do not exercise their own judgment concerning the candidate they feel will best lead the country. While we in the military, who live under near authoritarian rule, are not bound by political party affiliation, actually making a freer choice than those back home who are being influenced by unions, churches, or which party our grandfather voted for. Don't worry political parties - when the soldiers get back in "the world" the lessons we have learned will begin to fade and sadly we too will defer our judgement to organizations.

Our new commanding general said in an interview with 60 Minutes he will not vote in national elections any more. He says when he became a general he decided it was best he not vote, instead focus on the job he had sworn to do, to protect and defend the Constitution. You have to respect that.

We in Iraq are far removed from what is deemed important back in the states. There is a lot you find important over there that we just don't understand any more. It is interesting that the military which is commonly referred to as a “slice of America”, holds political differences that are so very different than the America they were cut from. I wonder what changes in the contents of the pie when it is shipped around the world, baked at high temperatures and exposed to extreme violence? All I know is we are somehow changed.

In sha la

2008-10-07T01:55:00.009+03:00

You know, good things just happen sometimes.

I was just thinking yesterday that my running shoes are getting a little bit old (I bought them August a year ago) and even was shopping for some new shoes on line. Then I got busy and didn't order any.

Last night while walking back to my CHU (Collapsible Housing Unit), I threw some trash in a garbage can. Right there at the bottom of the can I noticed a new pair of shoes. I picked them up and looked them over, they were my size, had not been worn and were a pretty nice pair of Nike running shoes. I walked away at first, then turned and thought, "What the hell." I went back and rescued them from the trash.

I ran in them today and they are great. What a find!

When soldiers are leaving Iraq they throw out everything in order to lighten the load. I guess someone just couldn't fit the shoes in their duffel bag. All I have to say about that is, "Thanks for the shoes. I hope you have a great trip home."

My Arabic friends are always telling me, "In sha la (if it is God's will). A good way to view life I suppose. My take on this discovery is, I guess he wants me to run. So I do.

It is beginning to get cold

2008-10-01T23:42:00.008+03:00

Whew! We have finally dropped below 100 degrees for the first time since early May.

The average temperature for the Iraqi “three months of Hell” has been 125 degrees with spikes up into the 130s a few times. There are those who say once the temperature gets over 110 degrees you can’t really tell the difference, well, they are full of crap. Hot is hot, but really hot is indescribable.

As I left my hooch this morning there was actually a suggestion of cool in the air mixed with a gentle breeze. A cool 99 degrees. Ahhhh.

The forecast is for us to drop below 90 next week. I think I may freeze. I am going to dig out my winter jacket. That is a 40 degree drop. For you folks used to Michigan summers, this is like going from 70 to 30. Yep, a coat will be in my wardrobe soon.

There is still no forecast for rain. I have not seen a drop of rain since I got here. I am beginning to wonder if it ever rains in Iraq. I think this place is permanently parched. A few drops feel when I was in Kuwait about six months back, but they dehydrated as soon as they hit the Earth, but none for Baghdad for almost 6 months. I think I may just have to take a natural shower outdoors if a storm ever does show up.

Tomorrow is my day off and I will be walking around looking at the sky waiting for something wet to fall. I will bring a towel with me just in case.

Tension is in the air

2008-09-30T23:28:00.009+03:00

It seems that everything in Iraq is aggressive. There is just something about this place that makes everything want to attack. This is true for the people, the animals, and even the bugs.

I am not even going to get into the mortar shellings, the bombings of innocent civilians, the IED attacks or the random snipers shooting our soldiers as they provide security patrols in the Iraqi neighborhoods. Operational security prohibits me from talking about the missions we undertake every day, besides this is all in the major newspapers. Just pick up a copy of the New York Times, Washington Post, or the Los Angeles Times they give pretty good coverage. Sorry, I digress...

What I am talking about is a behavioral assessment in other conditions, the type I have noticed when I was out on civil aide missions handing out food and supplies to the needy. We would pull up with a load of food, diapers, and clothing but would have to stop handing the stuff out because of the fights that were developing all around us. We would then calm them down, explain to them that everyone would get an equal supply, and then line them up. They acknowledged our rules and agreed to comply. We would again begin handing out the goods, but within minutes the lines would break down and the fights would start. There is nothing quite like watching women dressed like Jesus’ mother Mary in a WWF style brawl fighting over a $.99 cent ball. The crazy thing is after we had distributed everything and ownership had been established they could set that same ball on the ground and no one would touch it. I guess we just don’t understand their rules.

As I was running today I was attacked by Iraqi flies. Now back in “the world” we have annoying flies that try to bite you when you are out for a walk and even the bothersome house fly that buzzes around trying to get a bite off of your plate. I am sure you all have seen the picture of the poor third world kid sitting with flies crawling all over his face and wonder why he doesn't shoo them away. Well I am here to tell you that these little fellows over here are kamikazes. They repeatedly strike right at your face trying to crawl up your nose, in your mouth or lick you in the eyes with their nasty little tongues. Yeah, I know, disgusting. They do not give up. They are aggressive little buggers who when they have spotted a living being are set on getting their share of body fluids before the other creatures in the desert get theirs. I suppose the poor kid in those pictures just gave up on swatting them away.

Yesterday I saw two doves scrapping in the middle of the road. Feathers were flying as I walked by. I don’t know what the fight was about, but neither bird was giving up. I thought to myself, here are doves, the universal symbol of love and peace, locked in mortal combat in downtown Baghdad. Could it be a religious difference, or perhaps one was from the north while the other was from the south. Perhaps they were in an argument about the SOFA agreement. All I know is they were more interested in killing each other than me walking up to them. I made the peace by breaking up the fight and sending them on their way.

I have a theory. The Middle East and particularly Iraq is called the “cradle of civilization”. For humanity to survive and develop a working society there was a need for aggressive behavior to rise above the environment. Life is hard in this dessert. To survive creatures have had to aggressively pursue resources when they are available. Even though we are an increasingly developed world, the situation here has not changed much over the centuries. To survive requires toughness and tenacity in getting what you can. Modern society is a direct product of this aggressiveness that allowed our ancient ancestors to rise from a tribal existence.

I had a conversation with some state department officials yesterday and they said the people of Iraq are not rude, they are desperate, they always have been, and because of the environment this may not change.

Perhaps more than religious divisions, cultural differences, or even racial divides, it could well be that this area is simply prone to tension based on the environment. This is a tension we can thank for the development of our cultural ideologies, but we can be equally thankful our ancestors moved us to places where we can be at peace.

Sorry folks....

2008-09-30T23:22:00.006+03:00

I appologize for the delay in postings. I have recently been put into a new position and have been learning the way the military likes best, "drinking from a firehose". As things develop with the new CG more changes are in store. The troop drawdown is directly impacting the way we do business. I will do my best to keep you posted.

Change is coming...

2008-09-16T09:50:00.008+03:00

I awoke this morning to a blood-orange sky. This was the result of a strong sandstorm that blew in yesterday blotting out the sun, and producing a series of fantastic colors ranging from white-hot, to brown, to an ominous yellow.

These sandstorms are an interesting phenomenon. They take a beautiful day and turn it brown. Even the Americans wear face masks, transforming us into locals, but instead of the familiar red or black checkered face masks of the Arabic world, ours are of course desert camouflage. We still end up with our lungs filled with dirt and spend the day attempting to keep the dirt from filling our eyes. The advantage of the storm is it has dropped the temperature from 128 degrees last week to a very comfortable 108 today. The storm and resulting change of temperature is but a minor adjustment compared to what is in store for us.

I cannot say what the coming days will bring. The winds of change are in place in Iraq: we are getting a new commander, it is the month of Ramadan, attacks are at an all time low, we are drawing down our troop strength, and to top it all off we are getting a new commander in chief elected in just a few months.

What is the future of Iraq? We see agreements and disagreements every day. Violent incidents are at an all time low. There were an average of 1600 violent incidents per week one year ago, we are now averaging under 200. In contrast to this indicator of security improvement, we had yet another female suicide bomber yesterday to destroy the peace. We continue to hand over vast segments of the country to the local governments, putting the Iraqis in charge of their own security. This has been very successful. But it seems that just prior to the handover there is an uprising from the insurgency in an attempt to destabilize the area again. It is almost as though the extremists don’t want Iraqi control. It is almost as though they want a continued Coalition presence so they will have something to fight against. Could it be they need an excuse for their radicalism?

As I have noted before, stability breeds stability. Once areas become safe everyone wants to move there. We heard reports today from young professionals complaining that land prices are too high in the safe areas. Strangely, this is a positive indicator. The market has always been dictated by desirability. So if prices are rising in segments of Iraq, this means there are areas that are very desirable. People are returning to neighborhoods they abandoned years ago only to find squatters living in their homes. It has been pretty simple to solve though. Usually no litigation is even necessary. People want their old neighbors back regardless of their religious beliefs. What was a stable neighborhood before the war can safely become stable again when the same people live there. So the locals are literally driving the squatters and insurgents from their streets.

Of course the question is, can it last? Will be stay here long enough to ensure the improvements can gain a solid footing. I can assure you everyone wants to go home, but we want to make sure the work we have given so much of our lives to will last. The soldiers who have served in Iraq want the pride of a WWII veteran, not the pride mixed sorrow of those who struggled in Vietnam.

We are almost there in Iraq, but changes are happening.

The dreaded "sheeb"...and Elvis spotted in Iraq

2008-09-09T20:44:00.007+03:00

We hear sheeb are on the loose in Anbar, preying on the local Iraqi population.

Local Iraqis in the Anbar province are reporting that the U.S. military has introduced predatory animals called “sheeb” into the area. They claim the sheeb have wounded a number of local people.

That’s right folks, “sheeb” not sheep. The locals insist that these animals resemble wolves and have collars proving they are not wild animals but rather animals used by U.S. forces in search operations. Others insist the sheeb have “a ring in their neck” to allow the military to control their aggression.

They said the animals attacked at dawn a few days ago in the Garma area, 15 km north of Fallujah, injuring five people and “acting in a brutal and very frightening manner”. A medical source in Garma hospital said “five people including a woman were injured as a result of an attack by predatory animals called sheeb.”

Last summer, local Iraqis near Basra were reporting the British had introduced “giant man-eating badgers”. The local media gave the story a good deal of attention.

And you wonder where some of the conflicting reports that come out of this war originate.

This is the kind of fun reporting that makes my day brighter. Don’t laugh too much, though. The next time you are in the checkout line at the grocery store, look to your right and left. See all of those sensational stories. I think the Iraqis are just learning from us. Everyone likes a good story.

I am going to ask my Iraqi friends if they have spotted any UFO’s, Bigfoot, or maybe even Elvis. I hear he is doing shows up in Ba’qubah.

Selling live bait...

2008-09-08T16:02:00.006+03:00

Every waking moment over here is filled with work for anyone in a leadership position. It seems the only time our mind is allowed to wander is during meals and that is because most of us choose to sit by ourselves so we can have a little “alone time”. When the guy I replaced was familiarizing me with my duties he pulled me aside and told me to make sure I took some time for my self every day. He said those who do not are broken by this place. I have taken his advice and make sure I get that time as often as possible.

Today at lunch I went by myself. The “chow hall” is always packed with thousands of people coming and going. It is an impressive operation that produces really good food for a massive number of people. I went right at noon to try to avoid the crowd but really that is not possible. Today they were serving baked trout, Hungarian Goulash, and the ever popular Arabic Bar which is daily during the month of Ramadan. Not a bad spread at all.

Usually you can get a small table to yourself but not today. From across the room I spotted an open seat, went to it and placed my tray on the table. As I sat I looked up at the gentleman across the table from me. He was the second in command for all of Iraq. I said to myself, “Crap!” Then I looked right and left noting the table was filled with stars and eagles - Colonels and Generals - not the quiet meal types. Out of politeness I said, “You boys don’t mind if I sit here do you?” and then gave a nervous smile. Lunch suddenly became tense for me. I decided to quietly sit and listen. It is not every day you get to interact with a guy who regularly makes conference calls with the president of the United States.

The first few minutes were all about business, but then even their conversation shifted to going home. Many at the table plan to retire after the war. Each was talking about the executive level jobs they would take when they returned to the states as so many others have done. But the top general just laughed and said all he planned to do when he got home was to open a bait shop in the middle of nowhere, Georgia. The others said, "Oh yeah there is a lot of money to be made in marketing lures." He laughed again and said, “Oh no, I don’t plan to sell anything except live bait so I can throw it all out a the end of the week.” He then added, “If I sell lures I have to take inventory, and when I get home from this I don’t want to have to think about anything ever again.” He was dead serious.

I remember the hero from "Band of Brothers", Maj. Dick Winters, said when the war was over all he wanted to do was move to a quiet location and spend the rest of his life with his mind at peace, just enjoying the company of his wife and children. That is exactly what he did.

Time in war takes its toll on us all. No matter what the level of responsibility the experience wears on us. Weekly I see fresh optimistic soldiers arrive and watch worn our soldiers leave. In the closing weeks the faces look blank. How you deal with it when you get home makes all the difference in the rest of your life.

The general has a plan; I have a few ideas myself.

Earning U.S. citizenship the hard way

2008-09-07T19:08:00.007+03:00

One of the surest and fastest ways gain U.S. citizenship is to earn it by serving a tour with the U.S. military in Iraq or Afghanistan.

At a ceremony just a few days ago at al-Faw Palace on Victory Base 192 service members from 54 different countries were sworn in as U.S. citizens. At the ceremony each new citizen was presented with a certificate of naturalization to make it all official.

We who are guaranteed this privilege by our birthright take for granted what many are in the world see as the ultimate goal. What speaks more loudly than "I am willing to give my life to be able to call myself an American"?

One of our translators is from Tunisia. Both she and her husband decided they wanted more for their future children than north Africa could provide, so they joined the U.S. military together. We have a heavy demand for anyone who is fluent in both English and Arabic. These linguists patrol with us as we move through the streets of Iraq to allow us to interact with the people. This is an important yet dangerous job. Some have been killed, but died in pursuit of their lifetime dream. It is moving to know what some people will do for their future generations.

This is a great plan. There are millions of people wanting to become citizens. So they are allowed to prove thier committment. Nothing speaks more loudly than putting your convictions on the line by serving the nation you wish to call your home. It seems a small price to pay for a lifetime of freedom and the freedom of your children. What a great immigration plan.

Recruiting stations are struggling to lure American citizens to do the work our elected officials have called us to do. Statistics show that seven out of ten 17-24 year old Americans are deemed unfit for duty due to physical, mental, or moral limitations. Perhaps the international community has something to offer beyond products for the shelves at Wal-mart and at the gas we put in our cars. They are providing human capital to fill another niche we cannot.

So if you know someone who says they are willing to do anything to become an American. Tell them to give Uncle Sam a call and they will be sworn in as a U.S. citizen about as far away from America as you can get. But when they return to their new home when their deployment is over, they will have realized one dream and can begin at a whole new level that is only offered in America.

Sunnis pledge peace in Anbar

2008-09-01T12:06:00.010+03:00

We handed over control of Anbar Province in a ceremony today in Ramadi, a city which has seen some of the heaviest fighting of the war in Iraq. The handover of a province means the Iraqi Security Forces take the lead in the governmental and security issues for the area.

My role in this event was to facilitate media coverage for the event. This has made me very popular and hated at the same time. Because of the need to transport so many government officials and military leaders we could only provide transportation to eight members of the media. My first task was to invite those eight reporters to join us in an Osprey flight out to Anbar. The road to Ramadi is still pretty dangerous so flying is the best option. Because of the security surrounding the event; I had to get them to commit to attend “a major media event”, without knowing what it was.

FOX news immediately replied,”Yes!” and got two of the seats but one major network would not commit unless we gave them specific details. They were just being difficult. The rumor mill over here is unbelievable, so they had to have a pretty good idea what was coming up. I asked again. I then got a call from the their bureau chief still saying if I would not give specific details they would not commit. I just said, “OK”. I scratched them off the short list. I simply cannot put the lives of our soldiers in jeopardy just so some members of the media cannot operate without details. We had already gotten a commitment from BBC for two of the seats, Associated Press had committed to one, and Reuters to the last. A New York Times and AFP reporter had been begging, but I told them it did not look likely. But with the noncommittal of the major network I called them and talked to two of the happiest reporters in the world. The next day the network called back wanting to know if the seats were still available. They were stunned when I told them they had been taken, but I was adding their name to the waiting list below The Christian Science Monitor, NBC, Time Magazine, and NPR.

We build the list based in hopes of achieving the broadest coverage possible. BBC and AFP are watched much more in the international community and FOX is “fair and balanced”. Right. But that was why we wanted the other major network, so we could cover the U.S. with the two extremes in reporting.

In the end I was able to get one additional seat for a “pool video reporter” who had agreed to provide reporting for all of the networks. And in a last minute surprise AP gave up their seat for a “pool photographer” from Getty Images. I was impressed by the willingness of AP to support all of the media in the war zone, and disappointed in AFP who called repeatedly refusing to share their product. That was until I reminded them we were providing free travel and access and there were many others who would gladly take their place. They decided to share.

The handing over of Anbar is exciting news for Americans who wonder when the war will be over. This is the 11th province we have returned to Iraqi control. It is significant because it is the first Sunni majority province to pass back to the Iraqis. If this goes well, the rest will follow quickly. We are looking at handing over three more before the end of the year. Once the Iraqi government has proven it can govern fairly and control the insurgency, we will all be going home. We are finding that peace produces more peace; the idea is spreading throughout the country that has grown weary of fighting.

For Michigan readers, you will be interested to know there are over 1000 Michigan Army National Guard members working out of Anbar. The Marine Corps would like for everyone to believe they are the only ones in the province. What is great is the Marine command put the Flint National Guard Infantry unit in Ramadi, the most difficult location in the province. I guess even Marines know tough when the see it. "We are from Flint, Michigan." says it all. I know most of the soldiers in the 125 because I commanded their Headquarters Company for two years. There are some damn fine soldiers in that unit and they have definitely proven themselves here in Iraq. After the sacrifices Michigan has made to Iraq, it is fitting our boys play a role in the significant event of the year.

Presidential politics, symbolism, and public affairs

2008-08-29T22:32:00.008+03:00

We are on the other side of the world, but we are immersed in what is happening in America and work directly with the impact of these events in Iraq. Right now it is politics.

My job is to engage both the Pan-Arabic and western media. We daily talk with the major media outlets of the world and the United States. To do this effectively we must constantly be ahead of the breaking stories both in Iraq and throughout the world because they often directly impact how we frame our responses. I am blessed to work with some of the most talented professionals in the field. Most of the officers who work in our “shop” are reservists whose career is public relations for major companies back in the states. These are people who head advertising firms for the largest corporations in America and manage multi-million dollar public relations budgets. I have certainly learned much. Because of this it made the last couple of days particularly interesting.

We have 14 big screen TVs that are tuned in to the major networks from around the world. We are inundated with the news. We also have a media monitoring team who are assigned to monitor hundreds of newspapers and smaller networks from which they write “executive summaries” of every story that impacts our operations. I get hundreds of emails every day informing me of events and inquiring about developing news. On top of this every morning we get a one hour briefing from the commanding general on developments in Iraq over the last 24 hour period. There is a constant flow of data to support everything from electricity production, to construction projects to the smallest gunfight. And of course there is all of the “super squirrel secret” stuff that I cannot even begin to talk about. We are truly informed.

As the presidential campaign has taken center stage this week I have benefitted from the assessment of these media operations experts. It is interesting how they call the shots before they happen. They debate options, formulate a plan then take bets on the next move to be made.

This morning all 14 screens were lit up with the acceptance speech of Senator Obama. As we listened, the assessments began to be made. The speech was phenomenal; he was inspirational, speaking directly to the hopes of independent voters while solidifying his base. Of course those I work with engaged their professional expertise to determine how they would counter. It was clear the media was focused on this story and a good story has “legs” that allow it to last for up to a week. How do you stop it? Well, with a better story of course. The early morning determination was the usual suspects for the republican VP nomination were out. It was narrowed down to two women: the former CEO of EBay or the governor of Alaska. Ridiculous, but interesting. They called it. One moment the screens all had the face of Obama, the next they had the face of an unknown governor. The Obama story was immediately squashed: CNN, BBC, al-Araknia, al-Jazeera all dropped Obama and picked up the Sarah Palin story. Who? It was a master stroke. Will it work in the end? I don’t know, but from a public affairs perspective, it was perfect timing with a carefully crafted symbolic message that crushed the opposition.

It has been interesting how each of the parties have used symbolism to enhance their message. Obama chose the anniversary of Dr. Martin Luther King’s speech to commemorate his historic nomination. Senator McCain countered by announcing his vice-presidential nominee on the anniversary of the first voting rights for women in America. Both symbols celebrate the birth of rights for what are considered the most important voting blocks in this presidential election.

What has been surprising is how the Iraqi and international soldiers we work with have changed their perspective of American politics with this election. They idolize our democracy in theory but find us hypocritical in application. Every one of them I spoke with today was refreshed by America’s openness for change, whether it be African-American or woman. To us it may be politics as usual, but I am here to tell you, the world is watching carefully. With either choice we have elevated ourselves in the eyes of the world.

Life in Iraq has been challenging, but I have to admit, this unusual classroom has provided me with a world class education with unbelievable exposure.

A visit by Condi...

2008-08-25T16:24:00.019+03:00

We had a visit from the Secretary of State a couple of days ago. She was in Baghdad to negotiate the Strategic Forces Agreement which when signed will allow U.S. troops to remain in Iraq after this year.

She had flown into BIAP (Baghdad International Airport) from signing the recent missile defense system agreement with Poland. She met with Prime Minister Maliki for few hours and then came to the CPIC to hold a press conference. Of course it was not that simple. Though we are inside what is considered a secure area, there were hours of inspections of the place to ensure it was safe. It seems safe enough for us is not safe enough for a government official. None the less, we did get a nice visit from the bomb dog who was quite friendly, and who by the way found the premises free from explosives.

The press turn out was rather large. More than we have seen in our time here. As expected all of the questions were related to the contents of the agreement and when will it be signed. Her response, “It will be done when it is done.”

I have worked quite a bit on this agreement myself. Not the negotiating part of it but the public affairs end. It is focused on quite a bit over here, but seems to be virtually unheard of back home. I was stunned when I got here to realize we have to be out of the country by Dec. 31st, 2008 if the Iraqi Government does not invite us to stay. The United Nations mandate that allows us to remain here runs out on that date. I remember thinking, Whoo hooo! I guess we are going home. No, not so fast. And then I thought, since we have a Democratic Senate, they won't sign a treaty that keeps U.S. forces here. Wrong again. I have learned in my exposure to U.S. foreign relations that what I learned in my government classes is not necessarily true. While the U.S. Constitution directs that treaties must be ratified by the senate, all the executive branch has to do is simply not call it a treaty. So instead they call it an agreement. What is the difference you may ask? Nothing. Just the name. So it is called the Strategic Forces Agreement instead of the Strategic Forces Treaty which in both cases is signed by the governments of both nations and dictates relations between them, but in this case it skips the whole bothersome bit of Senate approval. Nicely done. So much for that whole separation of powers and checks and balances bit.

The treaty, woops sorry, agreement has been held up quite a bit on details. Of particular trouble for the Iraqi government has been the issue of immunity, air space, bases, and Iraqi public opinion. There are quite a few private security firms operating over here and the Iraqis want to make sure that the next time they gun down a car load of civilians they will not be protected by immunity. We have not had a good record of convicting contractors or rogue soldiers who have allegedly committed crimes. So the Iraqi government is refusing to sign the document until the immunity clause is removed. They also want to reduce the number of U.S. forces on the ground. There is much talk about us being out of the Iraqi cities by next summer and completely out of the country by 2011, but that will all be worked out in the agreement.

This is all particularly touchy for the elected officials over here. A similar agreement was signed with the British government back in the 1920’s that the Iraqis have not forgotten. There are constant comparisons to the “British Mandate” which brought about rebellion and the beginnings of the middle-eastern hate for the west. The similarities are striking. Will history repeat itself?

There were renewed protests in Sadr City after prayer on Friday. Al-Sadr who earlier agreed to a cease fire is again inciting his followers to speak out against what he calls the “American occupation” of Iraq because of the agreement talks. And to go with the protests we have again been introduced to a renewed effort to blow us up with mortar and rocket fire. I sure did miss those midnight sprints to the bunker.

As the CG always says, "Nothing is easy in Iraq." There are just so many players who want control. It gets rather bothersome that political posturing continually gets in the way of the good of the people. I wonder if what is best for Iraq can also be best for America - or does it really matter.

What will come from all of this? Even at the highest levels no one seems to know. But I do know we will still be here after December.

Iraq in August...

2008-08-20T01:18:00.012+03:00

Another tough night for one of our boys. They have seen much and have served with the highest of distinction. I cannot say enough good things about the honorable service of our Soldiers, Sailors and Marines. They make us all proud.

My buddy Lieutenant Commander David Russell and I flew a few flags from the US embassy to mail to those who have been especially supportive of our service here in Iraq.

Please fly them with pride when they arrive. They have flown in the face of the enemy.

I especially like this shot of Iraqi soldiers literally helping an old lady across the street. We really are all the same, with the same values, though we fail to see it sometimes.

This is the old and the new of Iraq. Many in this country still use donkeys for their transportation. Not much of a change since Mary rode one into Bethleham two thousand years ago to give birth to Jesus. And behind the little burro is the newest vehicle in the US army, the MRAP (Mine Resistant Ambush Protected). These new vehicles are responsible for saving many American soldier's lives. The donkey...he just makes us smile.

In case you didn't notice, it is time for school. These Iraqi girls are lined up to receive school supplies sent to the children of this nation by many of you. Thank you.

These kids love school. This whole nation is devoted to education. I suppose oppression creates desire. In a joint venture with the government of Iraq we have opened hundreds of new schools this year.

Shots of Iraq in August

2008-08-14T22:04:00.017+03:00

I have said it many times and it is so true I will say it again, the kids of Iraq love the American soldier.

You just never know what you will run into on patrol.

This aircraft was damaged when landing so it had to be demolished to clear the runway.

Water, water, everywhere.....water is as important as bullets over here... 125 degrees takes its toll on you. You can never have enough to drink. This soldier is ready.

This is the safest view you can take of Baghdad. I have taken this aireal journey to the IZ many times. The unique beauty of the city never fails to grab me. Besides, we have to look for the guy who may want to shoot you down...

A Good Birthday Froking...Whooo Hoooo

2008-08-11T16:26:00.030+03:00

The whole birthday party was a pretty funny thing. Laura wanted to make sure I had a good time so she set up a suprise party for me...rather long range. She coordinated for the past few weeks with some of the guys I work with to pull the whole thing off.

She sent them some cash so they could go out and purchase party favors for the group. She sent a powerpoint slide show with loads of embarrassing photos carefully choreographed to fitting music. She and Sami ordered a banner to be displayed at just the right time. And she sent some very inappropriate reading material. (Which is very popular by the way).

So the day started like any other, we arrive at 7 to listen to the BUA (Battle Update Assessment) which is over an hour of the commading general discussing all of the developments throughout the country. This can be rather long and tedious, but is necessary to be able to do the job. At the end of the BUA the chief stands up to gives the orders of the day for about 5 minutes, but today he and another soldier put up the banner Laura had sent, which was accompanied by the Bee Gees singing Saturday Night Fever and the beginning of the slide show. My boss who is a crusty old active duty Army guy, with 30 years of hate built up inside of him, came into the room saying, "What the Hell is going on in here?" He had heard the sounds of happiness and was intent on stopping that right now. But there was something about the pictures of family that immediately softened him. He just stood there and stared. When it was over he yelled, "Hall, come over here!" in his usual tone of scream, so I figured this would be fun. I love screwing with him. There is nothing worse than a career Army guy trying to deal with a National Guard guy who just doesn't take this whole Army thing too seriously. "Yes, Sir." "Damn it, I want you to".....long pause...."tell who ever did that".....another long pause....."that was damn nice." Then he turned and walked away. I thought I saw a tear there for just a second...

Then the boys handed me a package that had pasted on it a quote from General Order #1. "The introduction, purchase, possession, transfer, sale, creation, or display of any pornographic or sexually explicit photograph, videotape, CD/DVD, movie, drawing, book, magazine, or similar representation depicting pornographic or sexually explicit material shall not be allowed." I slowly opened the package, and inside was the July issue of Playboy Magazine. The war suddenly stopped. I was surrounded by some very eager Soldiers, Sailors, and Marines who had not seen a woman in quite some time. Well not in this way at least.

Now my wife is pretty cool, but I didn't think she was willing to supply me with a book load of femaleness to get me through the tour, so I knew something had to be up. She had taken every page, and every girl, even every advertisement and sanitized them. I mean really, how hot can even the hottest woman on earth be if she has an image of John McCain glued over her finest photographic qualities? The best part was the center fold. "Miss July" had a nice pair of..... compact disks for her bikini top, but there was still hope because she just had a sticky note for her bikini bottom.

Everyone knows how easily those are removed. So as a Marine hand reached from behind me to peal it away, he was bitterly disappointed to find, pasted under the sticky note but over Miss July's.....the snorting ass that is a logo for the US Army, and written neatly above her bikini line the words..."Nothing to see here!" Now you want to see a bunch of disappointed troops, then cover up Miss July.

One eager troop turned the page and removed a picture of two puppies that were glued over a model's...well....two puppies....only to realize these pictues were double protected because a black sharpie had scribbled out the image. Everyone had a laugh and went on with the business of the day.

The day was busy with several major news events occupying our time, but at the end of the day there was to be partying. One of our navy guys was being promoted early because of his position, which is called a "froking". We celebrated in proper style with "near Beer" (non-alcoholic) and several trays of Iraqi food which one of our interpreters had brought in. It was great fun, the merging of two parties into one....a birthday celebration combined with a promotion party and all the beer you can drink...but without the intended effect.

After the food was all cleaned up, a group of us went outside to smoke a few of the Cuban Cigars Laura had asked one of the guys to pick up for me. So there we were drinking "near beer", laughing as we thumbed throgh Laura's creative destruction of the Playboy bunnies to make them Iraq appropriate, and smoking Cuban cigars.

Rather a strange sight we were, but to add to the fun was a small group from the Italian Army sitting near us. Two of them were arguing rather loudly. We turned to see what was disrupting our peaceful moment when crashing into our table came an Italian soldier, knocked there by his Italian girlfreind who is also in their army. "Excuse me" (say this with your best Italian accent) Then looking at us and throwing his hands in the air he said, "Mama Mia! (he really said that) Italian women are crazy! Don't ever get involved with one!"

As the night wore on we continued to enjoy the Italian opera which ended as all great shows, with a burst of anger, followed by a kiss, and an exit to where only our imaginations could take us.

It was yet another surreal Iraqi moment as we ended the day drinking legal German beer, smoking Cuban cigars, eating Arabic food, and watching Italians fight and fall in love again.

What a great day, and certainly one I will remember for a long time. The gifts were great. I received 3 bags of chocolate candy (very difficult to get over here) a box of Captain Crunch (from the Cousins family-Thanks!), a dozen Cubans, an embarrasing presentation of great memories, a magic carpet, and 61 birthday cards from some of the nicest people in the world. Thank you all for your support and thoughts. Thank you Sami and Laura for orchestrating such a great day even though I am half a world away. You all made a great day for a soldier far from home.

English Teacher... Even in Iraq (with addendum)

2008-08-03T23:15:00.012+03:00

I just got in from teaching my English class to Arabic students.

What a great experience. Sgt. Murphy and I teach the class twice a week to a group of 20 members of the Arabic media who want to learn English so they can better interact with U.S. forces and diplomats. They are phenomenal students. I have taught everything from summer school to AP Language, but I have never encountered a more eager group of students.

Today when I closed class with my parting, “Ma a salaama”, while placing my hand on my heart and extending it toward them, the class all said, “No! Please, we want more class.” (Obviously, I have a long way to go) They began a series of questions about past, present, and present progressive verbs. After I answered those questions and gave many examples, they gave me an essay on spiders and asked me to read it to them as they followed along. They then asked me to quiz them on the essay. I kept saying, “alle”-“Class is over”- “alle” It was lunch time, the meal was waiting, but none of them would leave.

I had to get them out because we had two generals conducting a press conference in 20 minutes. They finally put away their books, but still did not leave. The class then lined up and one-by-one walked up to me to thank me for teaching them. Yeah, this happens after every class. This is the class ritual. So I shook the hand of every man and placed my hand over my heart for each of the women. I am certain my students back home will do the same when I get back next winter.

It is difficult for them to get to class though. This is not because they don’t want to come, but because they risk their lives to come. They have to travel through some of the most dangerous parts of Baghdad to get there. Some days my students do not make it, because they have been threatened for “cooperating with the Americans”. They take it most seriously when their families are threatened. (But I am still tough, and am standing by Kearsley High School’s eight-absences-and-you-are-dropped policy.)

One of the men did not come for several weeks. We were told he had been killed because he had been attending my class. Sadly the possibility was so real that we accepted it. How do you deal with that? Thankfully it was not true. Imagine, students risking their lives and those of their families so they can learn. I just don’t know if I am good enough of a teacher to be risking that much. But, I have prepared myself for something horrible to happen to at least one of them this year.

The biggest problem I face is a common problem for all teachers. There is just such a range of students. I have those who can almost carry on a conversation in basic English, all the way down to a man who just looks at me and points to the (usually wrong) words on the page. But he tries. There is probably more chatter than most teachers would be comfortable with as I introduce new words. Especially since my Arabic is very weak. There is a whole bit of commotion and pointing at words, and sometimes almost an argument between them about the Arabic meaning. But then they smile and turn back to me to let me know they have settled it and want more.

The female students are a whole different challenge. In Iraqi culture it is inappropriate to make eye contact with a woman who is not your wife. American teachers are all about eye contact. That is how we know the student understands. But here we are not even supposed to speak to them. But I do. I just see them all as I remember my aunts back in the 1960’s, as the women sit in class with their scarves and head coverings. The most difficult case is a woman from Saudi Arabia. She knows no English, cannot even repeat after me. It seems the words just will not form in her mouth. She comes to class dressed in the full jet black, head-to-toe burka. She tries, but the cultural barriers are insurmountable.

So for those of you who thought I may lose my teaching touch while here, rest assured, I am getting some of the most challenging practice possible. Besides, it is a weekly reminder of what a great profession teaching is. It is inspiring to see the risks these people of Iraq will take to attend class.

After class today one of the men pulled me aside to show me a picture of his sister in America. “Dearborn. My sister lives Dearborn." He pointed and smiled, "This her child in favorite place.” She was sitting in a 2nd grade classroom. Then he proudly announced, “She top of class.” He explained how important education is to his family. Then he said, “You will help get my children to America? I promise, they will be best in their class.”

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Addendum: Today in class we had several students missing. At the end of class two of the men came rushing in apologizing about being late. When asked what happened one of them responded, "A bomb! We were attacked by a bomb!" He looked a little rough, and scared, but alive. And belive it or not, he still came to class. You have to love these people. Later in the day in the news there were reports of the explosion resulting in 6 people killed.

Come, they told me...

2008-07-30T06:30:00.013+03:00

There was a bit of a birthday party here in Baghdad today celebrated by over 1 Million Iraqis who follow the Shi’a sect of the Islamic faith.

The pilgrimage across the Tigris River on the newly-rebuilt Sarifiyah Bridge and the subsequent celebration had all the qualities of the famed marches on Washington, D.C. back in the 1960’s. It was evident the Iraqi people are moved by their faith and are willing to show it publicly.

The celebration was for the 7th Imam, Musa ibn Jafar al-Kadhim, who served as the spiritual leader for all Shi’as for 35 years until his death in 799 C.E. His caliph is known as a time of much peace through his leadership, so he came to be called the “calm one”.

Musa al-Kadhim was famous and well known among the people for his generosity. He set free over one thousand slaves and was known to pay the debts of those who were poor. One of his most noted quotes is "The best generosity is the help to the oppressed."

There is a story of how al-Kadhim was honored with the kings gifts on the Persian New Year known as Norouz. The chieftains, dignitaries and nobles one by one presented their gifts of great riches. Finally, an old man came forward and said, “Oh son of the Islamic Prophet Mohammad, I do not have anything from this world to present to you, but I have composed a few poems to honor our faith which I have brought as a gift. Al-Kadhim was so moved that he presented all of the gifts and riches he had been given to the old man. He then said, “I bestow these gifts upon you, so that you are freed of poverty and hardships."

I know, I know, It is just like the little drummer boy…well almost…and we wonder where these stories come from…

But al-Kadhim also is known to have said, "The world is soft and beautiful like a snake, but there is a fatal poison hidden inside."

And this held true in the celebration this past week. As the crowds gathered in Baghdad, two Sunni terrorists took the opportunity to destroy the opposing faith. A bomber waited until several thousand people had moved into a street enclosed by buildings on both sides of the street. The woman then moved into the crowd and detonated the explosive vest laden with nails she was wearing under her robes. The explosion killed some within the crowd and sent the rest running toward the other end of the street. There a second bomber waited until she was surrounded by the rushing crowd than she detonating her suicide vest. The total carnage was 44 killed and 227 wounded. There were reports of others dying from their wounds later that night, but I have no confirmation.

Stunning.

It took hours to identify the body of the bomber. Soldiers and police had to sort through the debris and torn flesh to identify one body from the others. There is not much left after a person detonates herself.

This is what we face. There will be calm and a return to normalcy to the point the people feel comfortable enough to engage in celebrations that have been recognized for centuries. Then a small minority will seize the opportunity to destroy the peace.

I wonder what al-Kadhim would think about this. But then I don’t think the terrorists would care. Their aim is to disrupt faith, which is directly in contrast to the teachings of the 7th imam.

Suprisingly, the pilgrimage did not stop. The people continued to come through the next day to the Khadamiyah Shrine, to honor the “calm one”, to continue their prayers for peace, to maintain their faith even is the face of terror.

This is what faith allows us to do.

Time is the enemy to be defeated

2008-07-26T06:58:00.010+03:00

People “back in the world” often ask what it is that soldiers think about the most, what is it that bears most on the mind. The answers could easily be: the soft embrace of one you love, a cold beer, or perhaps just a juicy steak right off the grill.

But the answer is almost always the same, what we think most about is time. Time rules our lives. Every soldier I know has a “doughnut” which tells exactly how much time he has left before he gets to go home. Many have multiple doughnuts (countdown calculators) which tell him how long until he gets to take leave, or even take a short pass to Qutar. The end time is always the same though: “How long until I am not here anymore.” It is not the things you miss the most, but how long until you can get back to them. My doughnut says I have 207 days until I go home and that I have been here 203 days.

You see the problem is we all work horrendously long hours. My work day is scheduled at 13 ½ hours, but usually ends up being more like 15. There is no union in the army.

And long hours are bearable if you are engaged, but that is not really how a deployed soldier spends his time. While we may well be on the job, the job is often a job of waiting and watching. The soldier on guard duty is not doing something; he is waiting for the enemy to do something. And the enemy is waiting for the soldier to get distracted from waiting for him to do something so he can be successful in his attack. The problem this presents is it does not allow the soldier to read, or watch TV, or play a game of cards, or even engage in much conversation. He simply waits, day after day, finally waiting to the point that he hopes the enemy will come, so he at least has something to do.

Time works well for the enemy too. The more bored we become the easier it is for him to sneak up on us or for us to become careless. Time is even more on his side when it comes to the total time we have been in this war. We grow weary of war as a nation as time passes, and want to move on to other wars. Time works against us.

There is a popular clip on YouTube of some soldiers at a checkpoint out in the middle of nowhere, when a carload of Arabic guys drive up to be inspected. Before the soldiers sent the suspected terrorists on their way, they encourage the suspected terrorists to go to the next village, pick up their guns, to turn around, come back and attack. “Please come back down this road in one hour firing your weapons and we will fight.” Now of course they didn’t really want to be in a fire fight. The purpose of the video is to demonstrate how they just wanted something to do, even if it meant being shot at. To anyone who has "pulled guard duty" this makes perfectly good sense, to anyone else, it just seems bizarre. The simple hope is if they can get the fight over with, they can go home. Instead they wait.

How do you spend all that time doing nothing? You think about time. How long until lunch? That is an easily achievable time goal to reach. Now you have something to look forward to. When that comes you start to think, “How long until dinner?” How long until my shift is over so I can go to sleep and make time really fly. Then in the morning I get up and wait for time to go by once again.

The navy commander I room with is what we call “short”, which means he doesn’t have much time left. (It has nothing to do with how tall he is).He was a cheerful soul, scheduled to go home July 2nd. Everyone gets really friendly and optimistic when they become a “double digit midget” which means they have less than 100 days left on their deployment. When he became a “single digit midget”, meaning he had less than 10 days to go, he was given the bad news. He was going to have to serve additional “time”. It seems that the rapid drawdown from the surge had left us shorthanded, so he was “involuntarily extended" 120 days. Now there is nothing quite so depressing as seeing a “single digit midget” go all the way back above 100 days. It destroys the spirit. It destroys the will. He is not a cheerful soul anymore. I just asked him, “Aren’t you down to just 25 days again?” His response was, “No, 28”. He is afraid to get excited about being “short” again because he cannot stand the letdown.

My alarm just went off. That is a milestone. It is time to report for duty. Lunch is only 5 hours away.

The "rock star" was in the IZ last night

2008-07-22T23:49:00.008+03:00

Candidates attempt to win elections through logic, but in the end, elections end up being emotional.

Sgt. Murphy is a 25 year old soldier I work with from Chicago. You would think she is everything that the Obama camp is attracting, young, idealistic, optimistic, and hope that a new perspective will alter what America has become. Yet we have had many discussions in which she explains why she simply cannot vote for him. She is well educated and has earned her Bachelors Degree in English from the University of Chicago. She feels that she should vote for him, but as she looks at him and his background she feels he is just not the right guy to fix our problems.

It is an interesting conversation and as the hours have turned into days and we are so immersed in every move the media makes she has not wavered in her position.

Last night Senator Obama, and the other two senators no one was paying any attention to, had a meeting where I work. The first two spoke briefly before Obama gave a nice ten minute talk praising all of the soldiers for the sacrifices they have made and the dedication they have show to not only American liberty, but also the freedom of the Iraqi people. I must admit, he is quite an inspirational speaker. I have met few people in my life who truly had charisma, but his was immediately apparent. He won the crowd over, all except Sgt. Murphy. She just stood there studying him.

There was the usually round of handshaking and casual conversation that accompanies one of these events. But Sgt. Murphy wanted no part of it and headed for door at the back of the room to leave.

I read an article today in the New York Times that talked about how on his visit to the Middle East Senator Obama had again demonstrated his ability to blend opportunity with luck to come out ahead. They went on to discuss how he has a gift for turning situations around to his favor.

The crowd was so large that many did not get a chance to shake hands with him, and he had a tight schedule so he had to go. He waved good bye and again thanked all of the troops. And as luck would have it he headed out the door no one expected him to take, the very door Sgt. Murphy was going out.

As he passed she faced him and he stopped to look at her. She looked at him closely before she put out her hand and congratulated him on the fine work he was doing to change the way we look at being American. He took her by the hand, looked at her name tape and rank and said, “It is I who must thank you Sgt. Murphy. Thank you.”

There was a pause, just a brief few seconds, but there was an obvious connection. I knew right there that the polls had changed. Take one vote from John McCain and put it in the Obama tally.

And this is how elections are won.

Good Morning Iraq...

2008-07-20T06:35:00.012+03:00

How to have a perfect morning in Baghdad…

As I stepped outside today at 0430 I was presented with a perfect morning. The sun was not yet up so the temperature was just above 100 with just the suggestion of a gentle breeze. Strangely it felt almost cool. Off in the distance was the coo of pigeons calling to one another while the cloudless sky was scattered with smaller birds at play before the heat of the coming day. There was even an absence of distant gunfire. This will indeed be a beautiful morning.

There is a magical quiet time here when it is light enough that the generators that produce our electricity have been turned of, yet the trucks, troops, and terrors of war are not yet awake for the day.

I was up early so I could get in some physical training, because there is nothing like a quiet run before the IZ comes to life. As I ran though the streets I was welcomed first by my Peruvian guard friends who watch over the area night and day. “Buenos Dias, Hombre!” These guys are always friendly, but with their machine guns at the ready. They have on their floppy "boonie hats" so their "intelligence" tells them there is no insurgent mischief in the works. This is always a good sign.

Passing hundreds of date palms I noticed the harvest is about ready to come in as the brown and green dates have begun to fall to the ground. I picked up a few and carried them with me for a snack later on today. Where else in the world can you get fresh dates like this. This alone has made the run worthwhile.

On my way back in I pass a couple of Iraqis with thier Ak-47s slung across their backs playing soccer in the street using a water bottle for a ball. They smile and wave. "A salama lakum". I respond with, "Lakum a salaam". The game goes on and I finish my run.

After the workout I shower and head into the “chow hall” for breakfast. My father would be happy with the mandatory hand washing station followed by jugs of hand sanitizer. I wash up, scan in my ID card and try to decide what I will have.

At 0530 the building is nearly empty except for the International fare of a few guards and soldiers: Ugandans, Georgians, Australians, Brits, Peruvians, and this American. The state department will not stir for hours so the civilian population is not yet accounted for.

I think I will have an omelet this morning so I step up to the grill and begin pointing at ingredients: cheese, tomatoes, onions, jalapeño and green peppers, and mushrooms. This should be nice and hot. I point, because the Middle Eastern cooks do not speak English. He begins to cook the egg and I step into the next line to order up some bacon, corn beef hash, hash browns, a biscuit and gravy. He still is not finished with the omelets so I step to the next line and choose some French toast over the blueberry pancakes. I pick up my eggs, get a cup of coffee and settle down for a quiet meal. Wow....what a great breakfast...good thing I had that run.

Heading out of the chow hall I follow a Ugandan who not noticing me, lets the door go in front of me. He then notices, turns and begins to apologize, smiling and patting me on the back. I shake his hand, smile and head back to my hooch. On the way I pass the pool where soldiers and marines are swimming early morning laps. I decide to sit on a lounge chair and watch the sun come up over the Tigris River. You always get a great sunrise here. During the summer months there is never a cloud in the sky. Imagine four months of cloud free days.

But there is a price to pay for this. As soon as the sun breaks the horizon the heat immediately begins to mount. I could notice a quick building of heat. This was my signal it was time to head in, change into my combat uniform, and begin the day’s duties.

An hour later as I walk to my duty station, the magic is all gone. There is the rumble of trucks, the roar of helicopters and chatter of distant gunfire. The perfection has been removed by the general mele that is war.

It is nice to get up early and take in the quiet before the day is ruined. It helps me to forget where I am for a few moments, but then it all comes back as the sun rises and we awake to destory the perfection.

I hope you all can have an equally perfect morning.

I am back in the war zone....update

2008-07-17T09:51:00.009+03:00

This is where I live. To the left is our row of "hooches" and on the right is the hundreds of sandbags that protect us from schrapnel from the mortars and rockets. I have just returned from R&R and I wanted you to see my lovely neighborhood here in the prestigious Riverside area. This is where I sleep and shower, but that is about all the time I spend here.

The question that continued to enter my mind as I returned from my vacation from the war was, "At what point will I really know I am back?" Sure, when I step off the airplane and I am in the middle of the desert is a pretty good indicator, but I was not convinced that would be the true indicator. And I was right about that.

When I flew out of Baghdad a couple of weeks ago the temperature was 122 degrees, but when I returned the city was experiencing a "cool" spell and the temperature was only 111 degrees, but not to worry it is forcasted to reach 118 today so it is definitely warming up.

One of the first things to greet me when I flew into Kuwait to transfer to a military flight to Baghdad, was the reissue of my body armor. Oh yeah, 35 pounds of tight sqeeze lovin. It missed me and squeezed me extra tight as I strapped it on for the first time. It made its impact known immediately. The weight and restrictiveness tend to add 20 degrees to the outside temperature. The sweat began to pour and I was confident I was truly protected when the streams of sweat that flowed down my body formed into a river that flowed down the crack of my butt. Oh yes, I remember that feeling. That was the kiss to go with the squeeze.

While I was waiting for a bus ride from the commercial airport in Kuwait city to Ali Al Salem in the desert, I witnessed our bus driver lay a carpet in the sand, get on his knees and begin to pray toward Mecca. I got the feeling I was not supposed to see him because he stopped mid bow and gave me the evil eye. I just smiled and said, "Sorry". I was kind of hoping he would ask me to join him. I thought that might be pretty cool, to pray to Allah in the desert on a magic carpet in the middle of the night. But I guess he wanted to be alone.

The ride was about an hour long, and I tell you, I thought all the way that this guy might have been doing his final prayer before blowing the bus and all us on it to hell. But it was not to be. We arrived safely and I then knew I had brought more than a few extra pounds back with me, that while back in the states I had renewed my American prejudice. It is more infectious than I thought. I will have to work on that.

I finally flew into BIAP (Baghdad Airport) but just barely because a nice sand storm had blown up in the night and shortly after my arrival all air traffic was grounded for the day. That was not good news because the best way to get to the IZ (International Zone) where I live is by helicopter. So sadly I scrubbed my flight and went in search of other transportation. It seemed that even the Rhino that makes several runs down the once dreaded Route Irish to the IZ was overbooked because all of the flight cancellations. So I was stuck at FOB Victory and all I wanted to do was to go "home".

So I talked with a security patrol that was going "out the wire" and asked if I could hitch a ride with them and they could drop me off in the IZ. I was in luck and got a nice ride in one of the new MRAPs (Mine Resistant Ambush Protected) vehicles as they conducted their sector search of Baghdad. The crew was careful to ensure I understood how to survive an IED attack on this unique vehicle. Fortunately for all of us, we did not have that experience. It was an interesting ride with great views of the city I had not seen before. We only had a couple of exciting moments but in the end no one was hurt and I was delivered to my destination.

And let me tell you, those things may be air conditioned, but not so good with all the gear we wear over here. All we wanted to do was to get out of the vehicle is a safe area, peal off the body armor and let our selves cool off in the 111 degree heat. Crazy, I know, but this is life as a soldier in Iraq.

So after an interesting journey I stopped by my unit, picked up my weapon, and went back to my hooch for a long 12 hour sleep. I am home at last; at least my home for the next 8 months. It sure is nice to sleep in your own bed.

Out of the war for a few days....I will be back soon.

2008-07-14T15:42:00.002+03:00

To my dedicated and much appreciated readers, I appologize for the delay in reports from over here.

I have been on Rest and Recreation (R&R) for the past 15 days.

I will send out new reports again starting on July 18th. There is much to tell you so please stand by.

John

More June pictures

2008-06-25T00:11:00.002+03:00

A US Soldier takes cover behind a wall along the Tigris River while on patrol.

A Palladin artillery tracked vehicle fires an illumination round to support night operations.
Iraqi Soldiers conduct physical training in preparation for security operations.
Iraqi children are always curious about US Soldiers, and cautiously approach us to talk and get treats.

A Marine takes up an overwatch position to cover other Marines as they conduct operations.

More pictures by our combat cameramen

2008-06-24T23:43:00.002+03:00

US Soldiers patrol markets in Sadr City as an Iraqi cart passes by.
A US Soldier patrols the streets of a village as a Bradley fighting vehicle provides security overwatch. This is part of the new counterinsurgency program that emphasizes meeting the Iraqi population face to face.
An Iraqi child eats a treat provided by an American soldier. Many Soldiers believe that by winning the hearts of the children, we can gain support from the entire country.
A US soldier carries two boxes of ammunition found in a burried cache.

Our combat cameramen take lots of pictures that are not used so they pass them off to us. I will provide a few of the most interesting about once a month so you can see what is happening over here.

Images of Iraq in June

2008-06-23T23:06:00.002+03:00

If you were in Iraq this month this is what you might have seen. This is a nation that is both ancient and modern, is in a state of war but often welcomes us in peace, yet there remains a mistrust between us all.

This little boy is showing his stuff to the soldiers patrolling in their MRAP (Mine Resistant Ambush Protected) armored vehicles. He is a welcome site to American soldiers who know this part of the patrol will be safe.

Even as children play in the streets, the war goes on as we train the Iraqi army to defend itself against bordering nations and threats on their own streets.

Every time we patrol the communites in Baghdad and throughout the country, the children rush out to greet us. We often give them treets, toys and piggy back rides. It also makes the soldiers feel good to know they are helping these kids to have a better life through the work they do.

But as I have said before, it is an uneasy peace. We are wanted yet they wish we would go. I suppose it is embarrasing for them to have us patrolling their streets every day. Yet they know the streets are safer and more free than they have been in a long time.

Every day we find cashes of weapons, explosives, rockets, and mines which we detonate safely. They do make one hell of a great show.

Little People, Big Iraq

2008-06-16T13:31:00.002+03:00

Matt Roloff, the star of the TLC show “Little People, Big World” was our guest here in Baghdad this week. He was invited here to help out some children we know who are suffering from dwarfism.

The intent of this show is to highlight the challenges faced by “little people” in a world that is made for “big people”. Typically the show focuses around Matt and his family as they go through their day to day lives in an effort to rid the American population of the stereotypes produced by popular media and ignorance.

In my "free time” I have started to work with a few other officers who are trying to help out some of the families that have been devastated by the war. One of these families has three children who have degenerative dwarfism. This bone disease will make them completely immobile by the time they are adults. The oldest daughter who is 13 is beyond help; she lies in the floor of this family’s one-room house and can only lift her head and one arm. The other two children have some bone deformities but can be helped by surgery if treated soon enough.

This is where “Little People” come into the picture. The show was contacted to see if they would be interested in highlighting the difficulties of these "little people" in a country that is doing nothing to help them. Our medics can provide basic medical care, but nothing like what these kids need. So the vision was for the show to come and tape a show with the kids meeting Matt, people would become engaged and the children would be helped.

Matt Roloff was here yesterday and visited with the family to do the shoot. He said he was "crushed with sadness" at how bad these kids have it. Matt talked with the children and their parents, capturing footage for his show. This episode will be the fall season opener and the money made from the show will be used for the needs and medical care of the children. I have to tell you, Matt is a great guy.

The group coordinated through the security firm “Blackwater” to use their medical facilities to x-ray the children. The film will be evaluated by doctors back in the U.S. who have volunteered to perform surgeries to prevent the breakdown of the skeletal system of these kids.

They will fly them out through Jordan to receive treatment in the US later this year after we work through all of the bureaucratic challenges involved in moving children out of a war zone and into the United States.

It is nice to be able to do some good of a personal nature while we are over here. I know our military operations are bringing stability to the region because the violence is way down. I also know this stability is just the first step that has to be followed by developing trust. This is what we are working on. I hope we can help some people in this process, because I believe the only way we can make lasting change over here is to make personal connections through our actions.

First class trip home for "Devil Dogs"

2008-06-06T08:18:00.003+03:00

Yesterday I got a call from the Star Ledger in New Jersey. We do not commonly get calls from small papers, it is usually the New York Times, Associated Press, Reuters or LA Times. This reporter opened the conversation by saying she was surprised is was 10 p.m. and we were still working. I assured her we conduct 24 hour operations so she can feel free to call at any time when she is working on a story. Her question was: "What sort of trouble would a service member could get into for a violation of General Order Number 1?"

She told me she was doing a story on dogs. A group of Marines who are finishing their tour of duty in the Anbar Province had adopted some puppies when they first arrived a year and half ago. When they redeployed to the states they wanted to take their dogs, who had become a part of their "families", with them. The problem was, General Order #1 clearly states service members are not authorized to even so much as feed animals, let alone adopt them and take them home.

Well, give a Soldier or Marine a challenge and he will find a way to defeat your rule and this is just what had happened. They had coordinated with the ASPCA who had contracted with a private shipping company to get the dogs home. The dogs were flown out of the commercial side of Baghdad International Airport down to Dubai, where they were then flown to Paris, on to London, and finally to New Jersey where they will be picked up this morning. The cost ended up at nearly $4000 per dog, paid by the Marines, with added contributions made by friends back home.

The story has become quite a sensation in New Jersey, attracting the attention of lawmakers who are supporting their service members quest to get their pets home. And of course what is a better photo opportunity than to get your picture taken with a group of Marines coming home from 1 1/2 years of fighting in the desert who saved their money and found a way to bring thier loyal Iraq companions home with them.

These are not the first dogs adopted and brought home by Marines returning from war. The famous Rin Tin Tin was the first known "adopted" pet brought home by loving Soldiers. The movie star German Shepherd returned from World War I with a group of "Doughboys" who had taken him in and cared for him while they fought in the trenches of France. Much like the Marines in Anbar, the men simply could not leave their battle companion behind.

So what did I tell the reporter. Yes, General Order 1 does say soldiers cannot have pets, but it is at the discetion of the individual commander to enforce these rules. I told her that while good order and discipline are important, so is morale. Many commanders err on the side of supporting that morale though it may mean breaking a rule or two. Look at the result, you have a happy group of soldiers who have concluded their tour of duty by yet another good deed.

Sons of Iraq: A debate with a major media outlet

2008-06-03T22:30:00.002+03:00

Part of my job in Iraq is to engage the media on what is happening here. I have a good working relationship with many papers and media outlets. Most papers want to get the story right. But every now and then, there is a writer with an axe to grind. When they get the story "wrong" my job then is to do a "push-back", to let the journalist know they misquoted me or to tell them they totally misrepresented the facts. We always get a response, though not always positive. If they are not willing to write a correction, I then to write an article for that paper so we can get our side of the story to the same group of readers. Here is my latest effort.

If you are looking for a good exit plan from Iraq, looking for stability in the region, or want to see our soldiers come home sooner, groups like the Sons of Iraq are making these things happen.

I am John Hall, an American Soldier in Baghdad, Iraq and I would like to give you a different view of the "Sons of Iraq" than the one presented in the “U.S.-backed Sons of Iraq militia poses problem,” that was printed in the San Francisco Chronicle.

The Sons of Iraq are exactly what the American public has expected from the citizens of Iraq. For years we have looked for the Iraqis to stand up and take back their neighborhoods. With the Sons of Iraq, this has happened. This is over 100,000 men dedicated to protecting their communities from terrorists and criminals.

In Iraq, “toughness” is respected. This is not a land of weakness; this is a land where you earn respect, and out of that respect comes loyalty. The Iraqi Security Forces, along with Coalition forces, have demonstrated their toughness day after day here in Iraq. As a result, the tough citizens of this land desire to join in the progress Iraqi and Coalition forces have built. This is why the Sons of Iraq have and will continue to succeed.

Out of this harsh description comes a group of men who realize the new Government of Iraq is the path to stability and hope for their families. This is something any person would be willing to fight to have. So the streets of Iraq are being cleaned up just as has happened in many urban areas of America. Concerned citizens are willing to take ownership of their neighborhoods and are turning the outlaws in to the authorities.

Critics may point out that some of these men may have fought against the Coalition. That is significant because it shows we are able to attract those who were most opposed to us just a few years ago. We must be willing to sit down with those we have been fighting, bringing about a reconciliation that will lead to ultimate peace. Beyond popular belief, we don't win wars by killing all of our enemies, we win wars by convincing them peace is a desirable outcome.

Now, these same people are willing to risk their lives to uphold and advance the progress that is being made. Security is the first step, but security must be maintained through a stable economy.

The Sons of Iraq are also a part of a program to develop the economy across Iraq. As a part of the Government of Iraq National Reintegration Program, these men are gaining vocational and business education.

The initiative allows for roughly 20 percent of the individuals to become integrated into the Iraqi Army or the State Police. The remaining 80 percent are provided skill training and education to bring skills and jobs development to their communities. It is the objective to have them to be positive contributors to their community.

Some of these men are accepted into the Iraqi Army or police. Some simply are not interested in the military or the police and wish to develop their villages. They choose to use the training they have gained to open businesses or to get a job. They are pleased with the fact they have pushed the criminal elements from their neighborhoods and now are ready to build on the safety they have helped to create.

The plan is working. Iraq is the safest it has been since 2003. Stores are opening. People are safely visiting in their communities. There is a general sense of optimism.

Today is Memorial Day

2008-05-26T22:56:00.002+03:00

Today is Memorial Day, or as it was originally designated back in 1868, Decoration Day. It was a day set aside to honor the nation’s Civil War dead by decorating their graves. The day was first widely observed on May 30, 1868 to commemorate the sacrifices of Civil War Soldiers, by proclamation of General John A. Logan of the Grand Army of the Republic.

Memorial Day spent in Baghdad was like all days spent in Iraq, filled with mixed emotions. Today both began and ended with the playing of Taps.

Ambassador Crocker gave a Memorial Day dedication on the front lawn of the United States Embassy this morning. And while I have heard many solemn speeches about dedication and sacrifice, this one was unique. It was unique perhaps because of the wartime setting, or because of the Marine guard posted with honor and dignity, or the color guard made up of each of the branches of the armed services serving together in this cause. But more than likely it was how in the middle of the ceremony, two MEDEVAC helicopters flew overhead bringing in wounded soldiers for emergency care.

It is an awakening to hear a speech about ultimate sacrifice as Soldiers who have just made it are being evacuated. This time it really meant something, and the message was clear. This time I really knew why Memorial Day is honored.

The rest of my day was spent engaging the media of the world. They do not take a day off from war coverage because the nations and extremists of the world do not take the day off in respect of those who have fallen. As the war continues, so do the casualties of war.

Last night was not a good night. The U.S. Forces lost some brave men and many more injured. One of the duties of my position is to take queries from the media on hostile engagements to include casualties. It is a delicate balance we take between informing the public about what is happening in the war and respecting the privacy of the families who have just suffered a loss. This is not to say the members of the media are uncaring. They have witnessed this war in a way that has never been done before and they too have paid a heavy price. But they are compelled to keep their readers informed. I am compelled to protect the soldiers and their families. So we compromise to protect the rights these men and women are fighting to preserve and to share with this new democracy. The media are given enough detail to inform the public, but we reserve enough so the soldiers' families can learn of their loved ones’ sacrifices through the quiet dignity of a chaplain.

The war continues. There are great sacrifices being made over here everyday. It was a difficult Memorial Day for the Soldiers serving in Iraq. I just wanted to let you know.

"I just have to take this call"

2008-05-20T21:35:00.003+03:00

So you think you have trouble with cell phones in your classrooms or with your children. Over here, cell phones take on a whole new set of difficulties.

One of the greatest threats is the IED (improvised explosive device) and more recently the EFP (explosively formed projectile). These are nasty devices which have been developed by the insurgents to kill Coalition soldiers, but more importantly, to turn the American public against the war in Iraq by continuing to produce casualties on the battlefield. Al-Qaeda doesn’t want to stick around for the explosion so they have developed a whole series of remote detonation devices. And one of the most effective is the cell phone. They simply watch for a soldier to come passing by, call the phone that is wired into the explosive, and the circuit is complete, the soldiers have been hit, and the operative has escaped because he can call from such great distances.

Lately we have had an influx of female suicide bombers. The assassins have taken advantage of our respect for the Arabic culture in which we do not interact with Iraqi women, which also produces difficulty at checkpoints where we search. Just last week a checkpoint was attacked by a 16-18 year old girl who walked up to the gate crying. We have a natural inclination to want to console. What the guards failed to realize was she was crying because she had explosives strapped to her body and was ordered to walk up to the guards and if she did not her family would be killed. She did not detonate the device herself, it was remotely detonated by someone with a cell phone. I am sad to say this is not an isolated case.

And all of this leads me to today. The most trusted security people here are the Peruvian guards. If you want it safe, put a Peruvian at it. They are a very professional army. In the center of the green zone is a checkpoint in which you are inspected twice at least for your identity and your car is carefully inspected for explosives. This is a no nonsense place. There are lots of machine guns trained on you, and barriers to separate your engine from your car, if you attempt to ram the gate. The order of the place is, turn off your cell phone, and put it where it can plainly be seen, away from your hands. Make no quick moves. Do as you are told, and everyone will be safe. If you don’t know what to do, put your hands up where they can be seen and wait for the guard to give you the next set of instructions.

Today there was a standoff at this checkpoint. The Iraqi army was convoying through the checkpoint and the leader of the patrol was on “an important call” so he did not turn off his phone. The Peruvians responded appropriately with an escalation of force. Before you knew it, both the Peruvians and the Iraqis had all of their weapons “locked and loaded” with excited exchanges of yelling in Arabic and Spanish. Neither side was sure what the other was saying, but the guns were about to translate. It was a tense 10 minutes before the “international zone police” showed up to quell the bloodbath that was just one trigger pull away.

I can understand both sides. The Peruvians are not about to let a vehicle potentially loaded with explosives pull up with a detonator in the driver’s hand. Suicide bombers blow up checkpoints several times every week. From the Iraqi perspective, it is their country and they have to be upset by being told where they can go by soldiers from all over the world. It is a tense peace.

Fortunately, both armies had the discipline to hold their triggers. They settled the moment through diplomacy, though heated. These two groups of men, from different sides of the world, speaking unfamiliar dialects, both demonstrated the hope we all have for this war. In the end, they all went home tonight. No one was killed, and each man now realizes just how delicate of a peace we manage here.

A peace almost shattered, because a guy “just had to take that call.”

Meet Checkpoint Charlie

2008-05-15T22:37:00.002+03:00

There are a great number of stray dogs roaming around Iraq. Soldiers who miss their pets back home have used to "adopt" these strays. The Army, out of fear of disease and infestation of fleas, created a policy that prohibits servicemembers from taking in these animals during their stay here.

But this has not prevented the Peruvian guards, a group of contracted soldiers from South America, from adopting Checkpoint Charlie, who gets his name from the famous checkpoint that separated East and West Berlin during the years after World War II up until the fall of the Berlin Wall in the late 80s.

I first met this dog about a week ago when I was going through a security checkpoint. He was just laying around like a dog will do when it is 100 degrees in the shade. He would occasionally get up to find a better spot when his shade moved, but I must say, he is a pretty unremarkable dog.

It is said that if you want to get shot in the green zone, the fastest way to make it happen is to kick this dog. The guards have made him their own. And while American soldiers are deployed for 15 months, the boys from Peru are often here for three years or more. If you can't have your wife and kids around, you may as well have a dog, even if he is a mut. So in the absence of their families, these guys have created a whole new family, complete with the family dog.

I talked with the guards about Charlie and they said he just came around a few years ago, looking so hungry and homeless they had to give him some scraps. Well, we all know where that went. The dog kept coming arounds finally making himself at home at the checkpoint. This led to the guards laying claim to the pooch.

I have heard tell that on some days the dog will lay right in the middle of the road. Do the guards move the dog? No. They close the lane to traffic so their dog can get some rest. Imagine an old dog quietly sleeping while mortar rounds impact and rockets explode. But he rests easlily because he has a guard posted to ensure no one dares wake him, let alone run him over. Ah, the absurity of war.

So in the midst of all of the chaos and confusion that is present in any warfare, there is a dog, who is the most carefully protected dog in the world. He has a personal security detail made up of Peruvian guards, who may just shoot on sight, any person who dares "kick their dog".

Today when I left the "pink zone", the Peruvians caught Charlie for me so I could bid him goodnight. After all, it was a close as I could come to patting my own dog on the head. "Good night Jack".

How do you communicate with an Iraqi?

2008-05-12T21:59:00.002+03:00

Thursday I participated in a press conference with a general and one of the Government of Iraq Ministers. It was interesting to say the least.

One of our responsibilities is to assist the armed forces network in putting on a press conference twice a week. This is quite an undertaking because of the security considerations. We have to get reporters into the Green Zone, credential them to verify their affiliation, and then coordinate with the crews and interpreters.

This conference was focused on several points, but the one that caught my attention was the school issue. The minister reported that last week a school was raided by gunmen who held the principal and students at gunpoint because they objected to the education of Iraqi children. He went on to report how the teachers stood up to the terrorists in support of their students. We certainly have our problems with school shootings in America, but nothing compared to armed gunmen taking over an entire school. It just made me think of how good we have it.

After this example of how the Iraqi people are standing up to tyranny, he went on to tell of how last week a man who had joined the Iraqi army was conducting a security patrol in a Baghdad neighborhood. The target of the raid was his own home which had been taken over by insurgents. The minister said the man told him he gladly blew up his own house because he knew that it meant Iraq was now closer to being safe for his family. The minister said, "The Iraqi people have sacrificed more than the American People will ever realize".

I found it interesting how the minister from Iraq spoke in terms of stories to express his position on issues while the American general spoke in terms of data. The American military loves data to support our plans.

It just made me wonder if we can even communicate, a nation focused on facts, figures, and charts attempting to communicate to a people who speak through metaphor.

The difference in our language is more than Arabic and English, it is an entire cultural experience of how we express ourselves. We have much to learn.

"All Quiet in Sadr City?"

2008-05-11T20:57:00.003+03:00

The mortar and rockets attacks stopped for over 24 hours. There has been much discussion about the supposed cease-fire arranged between al-Sadr and the GoI (Government of Iraq). And I must say it has been a quiet piece of time with little interruption from indirect fire. Usually we get 5-10 attacks a day. Yesterday and last night, none. But all good things must come to an end.

This morning I was up taking a shower after a good run. I usually get up around 4:30 a.m. It is really quiet and there is a stillness that makes for a relaxing workout. Iraqi mornings are fantastic with a cool, gentle breeze, combined with the dry air which allows you to not break a sweatno matter how hard you run. But little did I know about the sweat that was heading my way. While I was showering after the run what should I hear but the "incoming" sirens. Now I tell you, it is a tough choice, rush out to the bunker naked yet safe, or to just accept fate and finish your shower? A buddy of mine had just gotten out of his shower and had lathered up his face for a good shave when the alarm sounded. He had not yet dressed, but had taken the time to wrap a towel around himself. So there we sat in the bunker wrapped in towels, covered with shaving cream, and with others who had rolled out of their beds in various states of dress. We have pictures, but sadly I cannot post them for security reasons. Iraq is such a funny place.

And then all was quiet again for the entire morning. But of course I was working so was not to be interrupted. But at lunch time, a couple of other officers stopped by my wing of the Palace to invite me to lunch.

You know that is the thing about mortars, they seem to come at the most inopportune times. So we were eating lunch, and because it is such a beautiful Iraqi day, we took our meals to the picnic area outside of the fortified dining facility. That proved to be a mistake. We were having a nice discussion and enjoying our all-American burgers and fries, with the only menace in the area being an agressive bird who was an obvious al-Sadr supporter. And right in the middle of a great big bite of cheeseburger, just when I had begun to chew, the "incoming" sirens went off. Well I have never seen a picnic area clear so fast.

In a few minutes the "all clear" was sounded, but it had been a total loss. The bird had achieved what Al-Sadr had not...my cheeseburger was gone, not as a result of indirect fire, rather from the other "criminal".

So while the GoI may have declared a cease-fire, I have not.

"Life's been good to me so far"

2008-05-08T23:39:00.002+03:00

I know, I know, it looks like I am on vacation at Saddamland. And, I am thankful for the ammenities he has provided, though it was to the detriment of his entire nation.
This is where I do my morning physical training (PT) in a effort to work off all the great chow (food) that is graciously provided by the state department. We are well cared for.
But this is what makes this place so surreal. Just the other night I was sitting on the other side of the pool drinking a bottle of water (we consume several gallons a day) and eating a bag of popcorn while enjoy the beautiful nighttime sky and the cool breeze when the "take cover" alert sounded. Sitting by the pool is no place to endure 122mm rocket fire so it was time to end the relaxation and get into a bunker.
As I sat in the bunker waiting for the "all clear", I couln't help but think about the contrasts that are presented in this and I suppose in any war.
I am truly thankful for the assignment I have been given. As an English teacher there is probably no better assignment in Baghdad. It is just as so many war correspondents have reported in the past. War is a thing of great contrast. There is a definate mixture of the beautiful and the horrible, reality and the surreal, great kindness mixed with the worst hate possible.
I my short time here this has proven true. I can't help but wonder what the year will bring.

Journalists Endure Great Hardships

2008-05-08T23:13:00.003+03:00

*Let me being by appologizing for the general lack of detail in these reports. In an effort to protect the security of our personnel I have purposely remained vague concerning many facts.
I have the utmost respect for the journalist who cover this war. They endure all of the hardships the soldiers do.
The scene a couple of nights ago when we were awaiting transport to the IZ was remarkable. Along with the scores of military personnel awaiting a ride into Badhdad, were also the reporters from media outlets around the world. And while we are equipped with the best body armor that money can buy, they bring with them whatever their agency provides.
They are here to ride along with the coalition units so they can get as accurate a story as possible. This is one of our best opportunites to counter propoganda. There is nothing like being here to "get it". We connect them with military units who then transport and feed them while they get their story. It has to be quite an experience for them.
In the middle of this scene the truck showed up to load out the equipment and standing in the human chain that loaded were the people of the world. There was a british woman with a derby on her head and a bullet proof vest on her torso. There was a man from Jamaica with dreadlocks reaching down over his shoulders, capped with a traditional Jamaican multi-colored hat. There was a 7 foot tall reporter from Bosnia running around blowing into a Kazoo. I looked at my friend and asked, "Is this real?" It occurred to me that this is the part of the war that simply has not been reported.
One one of the challenges is taking night photos in Iraq. There is so much dirt in the air that flash photography always results in spots in the photos.
The is interesting how focused the internation media is on this war. Most of the reporters who traveled into the war zone with us were not American. I am not sure what to make of this but will pay close attention and comment in the future.

2008-05-07T06:51:00.002+03:00

When we got up the next morning we found ourselves at the United States Embassy located at the Republican/Presidential Palace on the Tigrus River. The place is quite impressive covering over 1.4 square miles..

After all the time we had spent in the desert we were excited to see grass and trees. We are told that the complex is built on an ancient oasis so it has a microclimate that is cooler than the rest of the region. We will test that theory.

It is time to go to work....hope you all have a great day.

2008-05-07T06:41:00.002+03:00

When we arrived at the Baghdad airport we had to offload and sort all of our gear from the other units that were on the plane with us. By now the sun was up and beating down on us and we had several hundred heavy bags to sort and then reload onto trucks for transport over to our temporary housing at the airport. We would have to wait until the middle of the night to catch our ride to our final destination in the city.

We had missed chow at the dining facility so we found the PX and as on all military bases, apparently even in the middle of the war, there is a Burger King. So what is a good Michigan boy to do but order a breakfast sandwich value meal. Good stuff. And the really cool Coke can with the Arabic writing set the whole meal off nicely.

You may notice the tarp that is over my head. The army has these staged all over the FOBs to provide shelter from the sun. They do a nice job of breaking shading the sun while still allowing the perpetual breeze to blow.

Transport from Kuwait to Iraq

2008-05-07T06:26:00.003+03:00

Early in the morning we arrived at the airbase to fly from an airbase in Kuwait to Baghdad International Airport. We had been up since before midnight and had taken a long bus ride across the desert to get to the airbase.

When we arrived we were restricted to tents to await manifest. They had tight security; even to go to the bathroom you had to get permisson. We passed the time doing what all good Michigan residents do when we have time on our hands....no we didn't eat...we played Euchre....

Finally the time came and we moved with members of other units to the tarmac and began loading the plane. I got a great seat on the wall...the last seat so I could look out the back of the plane.

Once we were all on board they loaded all of our gear with a massive forklift. We had a total of three pallets of personal gear and equipment.

The C-17 is a massive aircraft so it was quite a unique experience as it lifted off the ground. I have flown in quite a number of military aircraft but for some of our soldiers it was their first flight on with the airforce. Let us say that all of the comforts of commercial are gone....no insulation so you see all the wiring and hoses, I sat on webbed jumpseats and kicked my feet up on the cargo.

The battery for my camera had been exhaused by shooting several flash shots and days in the desert, but I looked over my left shoulder and discovered an electrical outlet so I was in luck. I plugged it in and the plane didn't crash so all was well.

The most exciting part was the landing at Baghdad. It was not a normal landing, rather one filled with lots of maneuvering of an aircraft capable of transporting armored vehicles. Now there is an experience. I am happy to say that no one near me threw up so it was a good flight.

We were safely on the ground in Baghdad.

2008-05-04T19:49:00.002+03:00

2008-05-04T10:31:00.002+03:00